12v appliances go a long way towards making it habitable and providing some approximation of the comforts of a home, while you’re hauling around a tractor trailer. A semi truck gives off enough juice to power a whole range of portable appliances, but it requires a power inverter before you can plug in to the current. Some drivers get by with a 1200W or 1500W inverter, which puts a low limit on the amount of appliances that can be plugged in, and also runs the risk of starting a fire if it becomes overloaded. A 3000W power inverter can run a wide variety of tools, as discussed by a member on the forums:
I have powered (at one time) a commercial floor sander when I refinished my trailer floor a few years ago.
Now, I just have a coffee pot, TV sat receiver, assorted 120v accessories. I was thinking about getting a small fridge and microwave as well.
On our forum, a member took the time to explain how he installed a power inverter in his semi truck.
If you have any doubts about your ability to install a power inverter, please let a professional do it. An improper installation is a serious fire safety risk.
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Battery cable (or Welding cable) soldered into copper lugs.
Be sure to use solder flux and plenty of solder.
I always “fill” the lug with molten solder and then push cable into it while HOT.
It might be necessary to keep heat applied for a few seconds to make sure the solder impregnates the cable.
BE SURE to keep from moving the cable or lug for several minutes until the solder has cooled.
DO NOT cool the lug with water.
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I always have used this type of “Quick Connect” and installed it under the bunk; between the battery and inverter.
You can buy these at NAPA Auto Parts stores. This one is larger than needed, because when I went to purchase one, the NAPA store didn’t have a smaller one in stock.
These “disassemble” by inserting a flat screw driver between the “catch” and the contact. Then remove the contact from the unit.
AFTER your solder has cooled, you can re-install them by pushing them into the unit.
MAKE SURE you follow “polarization”.
Once you have the “Quick Connect” installed, it will only snap together ONE WAY, so if you have your polarity correct when you first put it together, it will ALWAYS be correct.
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In the absence of RED shrink tubing, I have always used RED zip ties to mark polarity.
The reason the inverter end is RED wire and the battery end is BLACK wire is when I originally constructed this, all I could buy was RED battery cable.
I have had to replace the battery end twice and have discovered that WELDING CABLE is about 40% cheaper than battery cable, and is by far a superior product; more flexible than battery cable.
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If there isn’t already a hole in the floor under the bunk, you need to drill at least a 1″ hole. A “throw-away” 1″ wood bit works good on aluminum flooring.
IMPORTANT: Be sure to add a rubber grommet or liquid silicone (even better: use both!) between the wire and the hole, or else vibrations will quickly cause the wire to be damaged, possibly starting a fire.
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FIRST: Hook the POS cable to the POS terminal CLOSEST to the truck. NOTE: the RED zip-ties marking polarity.
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NEXT: hook the NEG cable to the battery post FURTHEST from the truck.
ALWAYS hook the NEG cable LAST, or unhook the NEG cable FIRST. The same applies for the INVERTER end of the cables.
Credit to the original thread and author here.
Good installation article. Was this a 12 or 24 volt battery configuration?
Only thing this article is missing, at least 100 amp circuit breaker… . Very easy to install… .
“Quick Connect – You can buy these at NAPA Auto Parts stores.”
VERY useful. That was my missing link. I didn’t know where I could go to see one that could handle 300 amps. (My 1500/3000 will draw up to 294 amps for up to ~1/2 a second) I’ll go with a 300 amp MANUAL reset breaker near the battery, since inverter fuses offer no protection if the positive cable shorts out. A breaker on the 120v/240v side is generally not useful because they already have protection to match their design. Example: Mine will hold for ~1/2 second at max surge, and kick out for sustained operation at anything over the max output rating while another will run up to 5 minutes at 120%, etc. With a 1500/3000 it means a 25 amp surge max through 12/2 for 1/2 second, and not more than 12.5 amps sustained before the inverter trips…which brings up something else. There needs to be a convenient way to turn the inverter on an off, and to be able to power cycle the inverter for it to resume supplying 120v again after it kicks out from an overload, or the more likely, DC under voltage.
This is great if your inverter only has 2 wires … the new power drive 2000 I bought has 4 where do they all go?…hook to 1 battery or 2 … nothing in the box saying what or how to hook these wires…. Thanks in advance for any help.
you can run them to the same battery.
I have a Xantrex 458 that was formerly used on a motorhome. Since I have it, I was wanting to use it to power frig, microwave, auxiliary heat and small appliances in a Volvo 610. I can’t afford the cost of installation and am a RV tech for 2 years.
My question is about placement of inverter, and batteries. I was thinking to use the curb side storage for both but read that they should not be together. I could sure use some help.
Thanks
What if you run the inverter off a tri pac…can it handle the wattage? Amperage? Volts? Don’t know ?
You can’t run an inverter directly off a tri-pac. You still have to connect it to the batteries.
Welding cable is not oil or fuel resistant. So it will break down.
Cable size critical also. Check owner’s manual. And was mentioned, a inline fuse kit. A very good place for proper sized cables, pre cut lengths and ready to go for simple “plug and play” installation, along with fuse kits for the size you need is http://donrowe.com
The ground negative in top left is your common ground. You hook up to that negative. Not the one furthest from the truck!
OK so my truck has the 4 batteries stacked .2 on top 2 on bottom..so which one is the proper hook up for the inverter?? 2007 Kw T600
Hi,i recently bought a 2000w powerdrive ,i want to install it to my semitruck batteries…i’d need a diagram on how to connect it .
Can someone help ?? Ps …as ya’ll know that semi truck has 4 battries in the battbox.how to connect the inverter without damage it ? Thnx.
Not real clear on which battery terminals to use. This article does not do a very good job of specifying.
I have 6 batteries and the terminals are parallel with the tractor. The battery box is on the drivers side and the negative terminals are on the outside and the positive terminals are on the inside.
Thank you for your help whomever knows the answer.
Do I have to weld or solder anything? I have a simple 1500w power drive with 2 wires. Can I just run the wires to the battery and start using it? Also, but closest to the truck, do you mean closest to the engine?
I have a 1500 watt inverter, my 47″ hdtv says “AC/VA 100-240v~ 50/60Hz, 110W”.. it won’t turn on. Can someone tell me if it’s simply too much for the inverter and why? What am I looking for in a TV for this inverter?
I have a power drive 2000 watt inverter with 4 wires. The mechanic hooked both power wires to the same lug on one side of a 200amp fuse then the other side with one wire to the battery inches away. The fuse keeps tripping when I use my microwave. What could be wrong? Does each power wire need a separate fuse? Thank you for your time.
Ever hear Why? I have same issue. Worked fine in my other truck but when they hooked it up in my new truck fuse keeps blowing when I use microwave.
Negative post go toward the frame.why?if you crash. Less chance of short then if red is close to the frame.also it permit shorter ground wire usually .yep red post goes away from frame.
Usually you put negative close to start or and positive as far from start or as possible .I think you should plug all negative together and all positive together .
Question can we ground non battery to the frame? This is what my vehicle recommend .otherwise alternator charge improperly