i had the yellow check engine light turn on when i started my truck. it started ok, idled for about 5 minutes, then sputtered and died. i let the truck sit for about 10-15 minutes, and it started right back up. the truck had been sitting for about 6 weeks.
the next day, the light briefly turned on, then right back off. the truck had already been on for most of the morning before the light did this. i havent seen the light turn on again.
what would the possible causes that make the check engine light turn on? i checked the oil level, coolant level before starting the truck and all levels were good.
the truck is a '93 freightliner with an n14.
yellow check engine light
Discussion in 'Trucks [ Eighteen Wheelers ]' started by joecitizen, Oct 31, 2010.
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A sensor of some sort. I know the truck I drive has a N14 Plus in it and the other day running down the road the engine light went off, alarms and no oil pressure. By the time I got to the shoulder the truck had shut off.
It would start and run for maybe 30 seconds and shut off. Didn't hear any knocking...had plenty of oil. Mechanic said to unplug oil sending unit and see what it did. Ran just fine. Check engine light stayed on. Hit the KW dealer, got a new sending unit and no issues.bullhaulerswife Thanks this. -
first of all - pull codes with check engine button! seems to me no reason to tell you how to read blink codes. To be sure press button whith ign.off and hold, then turn ign. on and 5 sec later release button. You will clear all stored codes, then start engine and when it stalls pull code with button!
If it is engine protection code when you press shut down override button.... and.... engine will not stall in 30 sec.
Shutdown may be actuated with Low coolant, overheating, oil low pressure, oil overheating, on some models crankcase pressure (on volvos usually) ore coolant pressure. Faulty sensor may cause it!
well, if no engine protection codes engine may stall with low fuel pressure (lower 100 psi for N14), bad injector(s) that let exhaust gas come into fuel system in cyl. head (black nozzele needle syndrome) ore with faulty EPS (engine pos. sensor). Sometimes engine stalls with bad ECM power supply (kl. 30 usually, small red wire in battery box with 20A fuse).
Anyway - start with codes first -
Chances are it for low coolant. Even though the level is full, with the engine sitting for that long some corrosion will still form on the tip of the coolant level sensor. With even minor corrosion the sensor tip is covered and won't sense the coolant.
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Our indication was, lower oil pressure, check engine light would come on, then oil pressure light would come on, but only at low rpms. Rev her up, all would go off. We caught it before he got stuck somewhere out on the road, thank god. And on the N14, they are ease to get to and easy to change. -
Low oil pressure? Engine protection function stalls engine before any internal damage happend... N14 is tought like a rock, but there are some oil pump, and cam related issues. try new oil filter first! and sometimes fuel slowly come to oil and causes low oil pressure syndrome.
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the code i am getting is 434.
because my truck sits for a week or more at a time, i disconnect the negative battery cables along with the negative wire for the ecm. i have since reconnected just the ecm negative wire leaving just the negative battery cables disconnected. -
another thing...
after i start the truck, the red shut down light blinks 4 times, goes solid for a second or 2, then turns off. is this typical for this truck? -
434 - low battery voltage... may be bad battery, may be corroded terminals, may be wiring (very thik wires)... 434 appeares when bat. voltage is lower 6V.
Be carefull! to many times you'll get 434 and finally 111 code (internal controll unit fault) will appeare! I use to fix 111 every winter when trucks are operated with bad batteriesjoecitizen Thanks this. -
does the 111 code mean the ecm is fried and I will need a new one, or is the internal control unit a module that can be replaced separately from the entire ecm?
More info: My truck has 4 batteries, wired in two groups of two (hope that makes sense). The two ecm positive wires are connected to one set of batteries, while the one ecm negative wire is connected to the other set of batteries. This is how it was wired when I got the truck, so I dont know if it is actually wired correctly.
Is the ecm pulling the voltage from the two ecm positive wires? If so, then one of those two batteries is possibly bad, or just the battery the ecm wires are actually connected to? Should the ecm negative wire be connected to the same battery as the positive wires?
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