First make sure you are on flat ground or at minimum not leaning left or right. Don't set your brakes but use your brake pedal. Then as you raise the bed and the load comes out you can feather the brakes and let the load come out push you forward. You might have to pull up some to help it out. Letting the load pile up against your mud flaps and trying to push the pile tight is a easy way to rip the flaps off. A good driver will leave a nice pile for the operator. If he's stock piling he might want it tight. If he's grading he might want it stretched out a little. It depends on what you are doing.
You have to be real careful as you raise the bed that the load doesn't hang up. That'll make you top heavy and and as you raise higher you can tip over. Use tricks like shaking the bed while it's low or a short reverse with a brake to break it lose. Then you can raise your bed up further. Avoid drastic movements while the bed is up high.
Watch the other drivers and practice makes perfect. Clean the tailgate off after dumping. It's an easy way to get a ticket and bust windshields.
Worst Part of pulling End-Dumps
Discussion in 'Tanker, Bulk and Dump Trucking Forum' started by Eaton18, Aug 18, 2012.
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Ok.....Let's break this down....
Back up to the spot....Set both brakes....
Walk (Walk around even if you have air-gates...) around the area to make sure you're not in any soft spots or deep chuck holes that could lead to tipping your wagon....
Also...This is a good time to thump your tires too.....
Ok....If you are satisfied with the area that it's safe to dump....
Get back in the cab....
Release the tractor brakes....
Open the tailgate (If you have an air-gate).....
Engage the PTO and then the hoist....The bed will lift to about a 45* angle....
You'll see a small pile of material behind you..Release the trailer brakes....
Then slowly pull away until there is no more material coming out of the bed.....
Stop....Set the brakes....Disengage the PTO.....
Go behind to cleanup any material that may have accumulated either at the end of the bed or the tailgate....
Get back in the cab....Release the tractor brakes and then lower the bed.....jaylynn63 and CondoCruiser Thank this. -
The technique I use, of course making sure the trailer is as level as you can get it, not leaning left or right. My rig has the trailer suspension dump valve and the gate release valve mounted on the left-rear of the trailer.
1. Set brakes, trailer or tractor (parking).
2. Get out, walk to rear of trailer, undo the manual load locks, unroll tarp, if it's setting level, dump suspension, and release gate.
3. Get back in tractor, dump tractor suspension. Also my trailer is a spread-lift axle, so I make sure my lift axle is raised.
4. Now if I had set the tractor (parking) brakes, I will release them, and either set the trailer (red emergency) brake, or use the Trailer hand brake.
5. Engage PTO, start raising bed. Watch the bed and trailer tires in your mirrors. If you think you see your bed leaning, STOP!!! Set your parking brake, get out and look to see if it is. Sometimes the vision we get in the mirrors are not what's actually happening. Better to confirm it while you have a chance to stop it from going over. When bed is at the top of the 3rd stage, material generally is about 1/2 up on the tires. I'll release the hand brake, and apply light pressure to the foot/service brake. Applying too much pressure will also affect the trailer brakes. This will then allow the trailer to walk forward while the bed finishes raising.
6. Reduce pressure on the foot/service brake allowing trailer to roll forward from being pushed by material. This is controlled by keeping light pressure on the foot/service brake. This is done so that the material pile is neat and not strung way out.
7. Once I see that the material is done falling from the bed, I set the trailer brakes using the hand brake, and start lowering the bed.
8. Push the tractor suspension switch to fill it, then once the bed has lowered about 1/2 way, I slowly pull up enough so I can roll my tarp and clean up the rear of my trailer.
Our trailers are equipped with pneumatic vibrators. I will engage the vibrator once the bed is raised all the way up, unless there's some circumstances where I do not want to raise the bed fully (un-level ground, or very strong cross winds).
This is a general technique, and is not used in all situations. If the ground happens to be a little soft, or not quite level, I will not walk the trailer forward, I will always set the trailer brakes and walk the tractor back. Then once dumped, I will gently drive forward until I can start lowering the bed. If I have a nose-heavy load of material that is sticking, I'll make every effort to ensure the trailer and tractor, including the area behind the tractor, since this is the path the tractor will be moving on, is level. If not, I will string the material (AB-3 in the winter time) out.
Another quick note; When dumping in strong winds, always try to point your nose into the wind or away. If you can't, then do the best you can. A loaded trailer is more likely to layover than an empty one. The key is to get as much of the material that is in the front/nose, to the rear before raising it all the way.CondoCruiser Thanks this. -
I haul screenings to horse farms and arena's all the time, in everything from a 6 axle strait dump, or a 28ft triaxle frame dump, a 35 ft frame type tandem, to a 40 ft frameless, never had them create a "suction", however stranger #### has happened. I have seen a frameless go over at a concrete plant hauling silica sand, now that dont create a suction but #### it is abrasive and have A LOT of friction. I hate dumping in asphalt and concrete plants because 90% of the time the places are junk to dump in. As far as shoveling it out, never in my life would i have done it without pay. call me crazy but i have tail-gated 304 with a 35 foot trailer before, and yes it was swayin pretty bad, but it was that or go home with no money that day.
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NEVER use the brake pedal when dumping
#1 your wheelbase shortens as the bed goes up. having both brakes applies will burn up the pto.
#2. you don't want the trailer moving AT ALL while rasing the bed.
use the trolly brakes ONLY. never use the brake valve. you may find yourself need to quickly relese the brakes.
the trolly is usually located by the steering wheel. some trucks have the valves down by the floor. your going to be scewed in a panic situation.
KEEP YOUR HAND ON THE TROLLY. and you can keep your eyes up at the mirrors while you watch the bed go up.
when the load is MOSTLY OFF. you can release the trolly. the load will push the truck forward on it's own. stop truck and finish raising bed. while trying to keep the load tightly dumped.
then pull forward. just enough to clear the load. engage trolly brake again and lower the trailer.
ALWAYS LOOK ABOVE FOR ANY POWER LINES OR WHATEVER YOU MIGHT HIT. once the bed is completely up. you are now 40 feet tall roughly.
ALWAYS KEEP an eye on your mirrors. watch what the trailer is doing while your backing into position. if you see it rock to the left or right. that's what the trailer will do when you raise the bed. TILT in that direction first before going up.
once your dumped and the bed is lowered. get out. thump your tires and clean off the trailer.
WARNING. WARNAING.
practical applications may vary depending on type of job.Last edited: Sep 8, 2012
Working Class Patriot Thanks this. -
How bout dumping scrap metal from a 40ft frameless? Any differences there?
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That's looking at the area where I dumped CKD (Kiln Dust), downtown Amarillo. It was raining, and muddy. They had to blade a small area so we could dump. We backed into the far side, leaving our drive-axles on the concrete entrance. My drives were on the edge of this entrance. If I walked the tractor back, they would have dropped off of it, which was at least a 6-8" drop. I was angled into the entrance, no other way, due to the small street and cars parked along it. So if my drives dropped they would have dropped off at different times, big-time sway for the bed. So I set the parking brake, and allowed the trailer to walk forward.
When we step on the service brake, we feather it, so it does allow the trailer to move and also the tractor some. ALL of our experienced drivers (20+ yrs with rock buckets) do this. They also will only use the trolly. A situation where we do this a lot is when we dump Buildex® (CNL). That stuff comes out very fast, and we always dump it at DOT mixing strips, that are hard-surface (blacktop). Before your bed is at the top of the 2nd stage you have it piling up around your trailer tires, I mean all around them, so you need to be able to scoot forward, both tractor and trailer to keep from burying your tires in it.
Unless you have the service brake applied so hard that it is not allowing either to move, it will not damage the PTO. I'd be more concerned about the valves being damaged.
Now I found out that if you lose most of your secondary air pressure with the bed up, you're stuck!! It will not come down. This happened to me and the other driver that dumped in the above muddy lot. We lost the air having to jockey around to get in there. Before the bed will come down, you must get the air back up to around 85-100 psi. We also have air-vibrators on the trailers, which suck the air out big-time. We have to use the vibrators with kiln dust, that stuff will stick, especially when it's humid or wet. So we sit with our beds up, RPMs raised, running the vibrator for a few minutes. It's not an issue if you don't have to jockey around so much before you dump, you can keep the air pressure up above 110 psi.
To compound the bed being stuck in the air, I had power lines about 10' in front of my bed, the concrete entrance had mud on it, was wet (it was raining at the time), and my left-front drive tires were off the ground. I couldn't get any traction to move. I finally got the workers to blade the material from behind the trailer so I could go backwards. I finally managed to get the bed to come down enough so I could pull it over the entrance drop-off, then out into the street. What both of us discovered, is that there is something weird with our trailer air supply setup. Once the pressure had dropped too low, and we had brought it back up, we had to go back to the trailer suspension dump valve, dump it (pull it out), then push it right back in, to get the bed to lower. We both have no idea why, but it worked.
Just a final note, if anyone hauls kiln dust or fly-ash and has to dump in the rain, you'll have fun trying to brush off the dust on the rear of your trailer. Once it gets wet, it is not dust. It's more of a paste, that stuff just smears around. My trailer was a mess after that. Then I had to go "mud-buggy" following that. Drive across a pasture to load rock. I got plenty of practice controlling a jack-knife. This was a 1-1/2-2 mile road, slimy red clay stuff. Was suppose to be gravel, suppose to be. It was curvy with hills.Last edited: Sep 15, 2012
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i don't knpw much about your operation.
but we only need enough air to engage the pto. the bed is hydraulic. goes up. and has no problem going down with truck empty on air.
on yeah. we do need air for the tailgate also. and that has a hard time lifting if the pressure is below 100.
never heard of air having an effect on bed not coming down. due to usually since the system is usually hydraullic.
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