Where is a good place to buy a used semi truck under $10k

Freind bought this daycab, yea I know it's a Volvo ... N14 / 10 spd with a bad front drive. $2500 plus a new drive and some brake shoes, and it's out here making $$ on short runs. There are some decent trucks out there for cheap, just need to pay attention when looking at them. You can buy a 6 yr old truck ready to lay down but still sound and look good, newer isn't always better, it's just newer.

 

Oh please.

Take a close look at what a 10k truck is most of the time - leaking pos thing that is held together with tie wraps and bailing wire.

You guys who know how to turn a wrench are used to fixing things and I can see you getting a $10k truck and working it to return it to its old glory but when someone who doesnt know a box end wrench from a socket (or worst yet a backyard mechanic who can't grasp how the air system works) looking for something cheap to get into a business that is highly competitive and where people lose money every day, it is when we need to take a serious look at all the bigger picture and ask ourselves why are we having so many problems in this industry with high failure rates. we also need to educate those who want a cheap way to get into the business.

If the op listens, and takes warning about junk being on the market, then he may have a chance but it takes more than just a truck to make money and that tool needs to be reliable and road worthy not to put him out of business before he really starts.

By the way, I continue to ask the question - did you dyno the truck to check the blowby?

And I have asked did you have an oil analysis done to make sure all the fluids show no bad things.

The reason I do this is what many don't see, owners getting into trouble because of breakdowns.

It is not hard to hear the success, it is hard to hear the failures when people had to move onto something else.

The most important thing is the dyno with blowby. It is not having a truck idle and looking at the vent tube, but putting it under a full load to see what it isn't producing in hp and what the condition of the rings are in and how much longer you can expect it to last before an overhaul.

I can not believe people buy trucks over the phone and trust in what some say to make the sale.

So think of me as what you want, if one or two people listen to my warnings, and take the time to get into a purchase the right way to lessen risks of breakdowns then I did what I set out to do.

 

I paid 13k for a 2000 classic, 5 years ago. Engine, trans, rears later. And every other part bolted on to it. Im still here It was all I could afford then. I do 99.9% of my own work. Most people can't or shouldn't spend 40k on their first truck.

 

You can’t just ask for advice and cherry pick what you want to hear.

Yes you can buy a truck and go work it for the 10k range. Will it work, that just depends on your due diligence when buying the truck.
There are success stories and failures, take both sides and read them and understand them then figure out what will work for you. Because it worked for someone else doesn’t mean it will work for you.
Having mechanical ability and knowledge will be a plus to keep old iron rolling with minimal cost, even the willingness to work on it goes a long way. You don’t have to know how to rebuild and engine or an entire truck, but it woud help. If you know left loosey and righty tighty you’re half way there, and adding common sense and taking your time to learn how things work you will be okay. You can pay a shop to do the work for you but everything you made that week will go to the mechanic.

 

Back during the resession, I was buying bank repos. I’d get them where they would run down the road and sell them, most for less than $10k. I let the buyer know full well what they were getting though, most were best suited for local.

One of the trucks was a ‘01 Volvo. Had been rode hard but ran well. Clutch was shot, wouldn’t release. I was going to just part it out but thought I’d throw it on Craigslist for a couple of days and see if I could get any bites. A guy from FL called as said he would take it. He shows up a couple of days later in a car to buy it and I ask how he is going to get it to FL. He then informs me he’s going to drive it. So he heads out to FL, with no way to release the clutch. I have no idea if he made it or not, I was just glad he made it far enough as not to call me for help.

 

Biggest requirement for me would be no computers controlling the engine

An older mech injected engine will usually keep on running long after the computer shuts a truck down because of some stupid sensor going bad

On any used truck just assume you’re gonna need 10 new tires , new, not recaps .
And you’re likely gonna need full brakes , shoes , drums , cans etc

Probabaly should replace the radatior , wate pump , all belts and hoses

And if they don’t have a receipt for any work they claim was done, rebuilt engine , etc , then they are lying and it never happened
“Axles gone through “
Really?
What’s that mean exactly ?

An older pre computer truck that’s in good condition will be more reliable than a new one that shuts off every time you sneeze

 

Just remember their are carriers out their that will NOT lease on a non ELD truck. Would suck to spend your money and find out after the fact.

 

The OP must have listened to KR show...
I used to get inspired there too...Still need to try that keto thing.

 

If someone has enough balls to get things going with 10K equipment then there should be enough balls left to go all the way and get his own MC#. There you're talking competition. Two trucks taking the same load from the same shipper, side by side; one has 160K value, the one next to it is worth 10K. The comparison is so grotesque but both are pulling for the same rate...As long as the 10K truck can make it there to the receiver....