When to Change Belt Tensioner and Pulleys?

Discussion in 'Heavy Duty Diesel Truck Mechanics Forum' started by PE_T, Nov 28, 2018.

  1. PE_T

    PE_T Road Train Member

    Is there a mileage when to change these? How do I know if mine is bad or about to go out? I have a 2014 Freightliner Cascadia (DD15).
     
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  3. iraqralph43

    iraqralph43 Road Train Member

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    Changed both last week at 350,000mi...after belt broke because of bad pulleys and belt tensioner
     
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  4. PE_T

    PE_T Road Train Member

    I must be lucky. I don’t think the tensioner and pulleys have ever been changed on my 680k truck! I guess it’s time to change them before I end up on the side of the road.
     
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  5. Working2party

    Working2party Medium Load Member

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    My fleet runs in a ruff, off road, and short haul conditions, we change the belts once a year (@100,000 mi), we’ve started using the Gates HD belt.
    The belts made today are built so they don’t break, Dayco makes a go-no-go gauge for belts that works well to tell if it’s time. But it sucks waiting for the belts to tell you it’s time to replace them. Because it’s always either the hottest or coldest day of the year, and it’s always a spot that is the farthest away from the shop as possible!!!

    We have also found that in our rough conditions that the OEM tensioner has been the cause for many of the belt failures. The Gates tensioner has served us better so far.

    But if you’ve got 680k o your belts, what ever you’re doing is wiring and you shouldn’t mess with it!!!
     
  6. PE_T

    PE_T Road Train Member

    Hahaha. I actually have changed my belts (at 630k). My truck had 350k when I bought it. I don’t think they ever changed the belts, tensioner, or pulleys. The belts were okay when I first replaced them. I still have them on my truck as spares. I think the reason my belts lasted so long is because my truck has always had an APU, so no need to idle.
     
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  7. magoo68

    magoo68 Road Train Member

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    I heard a guy on a maintenance program a few years back state that tensioners are designed to last the life of the belt.. according to him you should always change tensioner when belt needs replacement because it won’t last the life of the second belt..
     
  8. Rideandrepair

    Rideandrepair Road Train Member

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    I didn’t change mine till well over a million.Ran new one for around 700 k. Currently been running original one for a year.Aside from tensioner weakening causing belts to jump. As long as bearing is good it’s good. They can last a long time. Also can replace bearings if tensioner part is still good. If you’re worried about it going out best to buy a new one and keep on board along with spare belt ( new or old) just in case. Run it till it goes bad. Worse case it seized up and breaks belt.
     
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  9. Working2party

    Working2party Medium Load Member

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    The issue that we have is with the tensioner Detroit puts on their DD15. I’m sure it works well on highway. But we’re only on pavement 10-20% of the time. The small gravel from country roads gets sucked up and imbedded in the belts, this make the tensioner work harder than its ment to and the pivot point and spring/ shock absorbers lock up. And we throw the accessory drive belt, usually in the middle of nowhere!!

    So in off highway applications, the Gates tensioner and belts are a better solution. Incase anyone is looking for the reason their DD15 is throwing belts randomly.
     
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  10. A5¢

    A5¢ Medium Load Member

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    If you have any doubt about the tensioner and pulleys, remove the belt, spin the pulleys and tensioner and check for bearing play. All of those bearings are sealed, so no dirt can get in while the bearing is in good condition. If they are quiet and smooth, they should be good. If you change them just because of age, brand new bearings, right out of the box can fail. This is one of the MANY things that must be looked at on the pre and post trip inspection.
     
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  11. Rideandrepair

    Rideandrepair Road Train Member

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    There is a tool to check tension I’ve heard of Somewhere. Seems a 1/2” torque wrench could be used to compare old against new
     
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