I replaced the brake shoes on one of the tandem axles on my 1988 Utility flatbed.
On this trailer the bearings come off before the brake drum. The new brakes are on and
the drum is back on. What should I torque the axle nut against the bearings and the
other nut that locks the first one?
Thanks
What torque for flatbed axle nut?
Discussion in 'Trucks [ Eighteen Wheelers ]' started by Rick Wilmath, Nov 9, 2016.
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If there is a spacer between the two bearing in the hub, it needs to be tighten down good, I think. Not real sure.
Look on YouTube -
I've just always set by feel. Crank it down tight and back of a little till hub spins free. A full turn seems like way to much. I think a quarter turn at most I probably set mine to tight but haven't lost a hub yet
Duckman1005 Thanks this. -
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My trailer though has 3 pieces. Inner bearing, spacer connection to the outter bearing.
I think its supposed to be tighten all the way up, because there is no pressure on the bearing it self?
I've blown 2 wheel seals backing off a 2 piece bearing system -
I've always spun the wheel and ran the adjustment nut up tight with the wheel spinning to set the bearings. Then backed it off, spun the wheel and gradually brought the adjustment nut up until I had no play or a very slight preload on the bearings. Then installed the lockrings and then cranked on the jam nut with a 3/4" drive ratchet. Once you get a feel for it its easy.
BoxCarKidd and 6wheeler Thank this. -
You do not have Stemco Pro torq axle nuts. However if you use the search block, top right, look up Ozdrivers May 12 2016 post. Lots of info on that. If the bearings are loose the seal will fail prematurely.
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Heavyd Thanks this.
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With two nuts and a lock spacer, I usually will tighten the inner nut down to around 40ft/lbs while spinning the drum, then while backing it off hit the lower face of the drum with the heel of my hand. As soon as I can hear the click from the hub moving, I stop and lock it down. If the inner nut needs to be moved so the lock can line up I always will loosen it. The lock nut I torque down to 100-150 ft/lbs depending on the manufacturer and threads.
The reasoning behind this method is that there needs to be room for expansion as things heat up. Most places that give an actual free play spec are on the order of .005", and you aren't going to get that by feel. Too much movement and the seal will die young or there will be handling issues, too little and it'll wipe out the bearings and possibly the spindle as well.
Using this method I have had exactly -zero- comebacks for trailer, steer, or drive axles, even on trucks with a history of axle seal issues
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