Lookin to see what everyone is runnin for fenders over their drives and how they're mounting them. I was looking at some new poly fenders but am not sure. We've been running polished sainless lifetime sets but i'm thinking about trying something a bit more durable. Also how is everyone mounting them? we've had a lot of trouble with breaking and loosening of the manufactured bracketry. Pics would be great.
thanks
What rear fenders to run??
Discussion in 'Trucks [ Eighteen Wheelers ]' started by Rig Wrench, Feb 14, 2011.
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Poly fenders on a Peterbilt daycab. They look awfully rickety (sp?) but have held up well so far, 'bout 8 months. My brother has stainless full fenders and while I like the look of those better, they're all dinged up from the tires throwing pebbles.
$900 for everything, plus I think $200-somethin for the install. The fenders are black by the way, they're dirty in every pic tho.Attached Files:
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Look like fenders on EU truck. I used to add made in Poland fenders converting trucks for European conditions.
I see you drive in mud and wheels throw mud around and you had to install fenders as mud shield.. Am I right? -
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I will post some shots of fenders we use later. )bullhaulerswife Thanks this. -
I have a set that were custom made. They are very heavy duty. I use them for a step up on to the trailer every day many times a day. Five years old now still look as they did new, minus the shine. They were pricey though about $2500 if I remember right.
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Weelllllllll....the nice thing about these poly fenders is that they are two piece. So if one end on one side gets destroyed, I don't have to buy a whole replacement. Just pop off the offending piece and replace.
But $2500...that's a big rediculous. You must pull a lowboy or somethin to be up on them all the time. -
Rig,
Here's what I did on a set of 'glass fenders if you go that way. Some folks want to keep the fenders clean with mounts at the bottom front and rear but like you said, the normal mounting points tend to crack, break or require too much attention. The mounting span leaves too much vibration on full fiberglass or stainless fenders. Don't know what kind of trucking you're into but if yours requires off-highway any, the twisting could do a number on the fenders. I chose to go this way...don't look too bad as far as I'm concerned and it reduced the span of the usual mounting points which, IMO, helps keep the fenders a little more stable. I simply adapted a quarter fender mount in the front...a good heavy one...that was bolted to the frame which the stainless mount telescopes over and is secured with a 3/4" bolt/nut. Reinforced the underside of the fenders with a section of steel rolled to compliment the roll in the fender at this point. Bolts are hidden in the underside of the stainless mount you see in the pic below.That's all that holds these 70 lb fenders in the front and they are solidly mounted. In the rear, I went down to the bottom like most do but used the structure of the car hauler rack to attach. This makes no difference because the mounting is very similar to the standard type mount for these fenders you can fab yourself or buy from most any truck shop or fender maker. Mine detach for tire repair by loosening a sequence of (4) 1/2" nut/bolts in the rear and the one 3/4" bolt in the front...then slide out and off.
Got over 300K on them like this...removed them several times for cleaning and repairs. Nice and sturdy.
Maybe this'll give you some ideas. Either way, good luck & truck safe.Rig Wrench Thanks this. -
Just make sure you do not mount the mud flaps to the fenders my first set thats what i did and as soon as i backed up in some snow there went the fender now when i here that noice i know my fenders are ok and its just the mudflap
billandlori Thanks this. -
thanks Trucklist, I think im gonna do somethimg like you have on the back, boss ordered double hump stainless, i have mountred the fenders off the toutque rod frame mounts with success (air track susp.)
your rig is sweet, super clean, sharpThe Truckist Thanks this.
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