Wet vs Dry maintenance packages

Here is some misc. info that I found:

Premium Preventive Maintenance - $254.99*
This preventive maintenance package includes up to 44 quarts of oil, up to 3 filters, and DOT inspection

1. On-Site oil sample analysis
2. Check differential oil
3. Check transmission oil
4. Check coolant level, freeze point, and nitrite level
5. Install oil/fuel filters and tighten
6. Drain plug torqued to engine mfg specs
7. Fill with oil to proper level
8. Install/tighten oil cap
9. Start engine, check for leaks
10. Lube fifth wheel, chassis, drive train
11. Check oil level in steering hubs
12. Check power steering fluid
13. Inspect drive shaft/U-joints
14. Inspect brake lining thickness
15. Check/air-up tires to recommended PSI
16. Inspect all hoses & belts
17. Check all lights
18. Check hood latch for closure
19. Complete DOT Inspection

Preventive Maintenance Packages


Premium Preventive Maintenance - $254.99*
This preventive maintenance package includes up to 44 quarts of oil, up to 3 filters, and DOT inspection

1. On-Site oil sample analysis
2. Check differential oil
3. Check transmission oil
4. Check coolant level, freeze point, and nitrite level
5. Install oil/fuel filters and tighten
6. Drain plug torqued to engine mfg specs
7. Fill with oil to proper level
8. Install/tighten oil cap
9. Start engine, check for leaks
10. Lube fifth wheel, chassis, drive train
11. Check oil level in steering hubs
12. Check power steering fluid
13. Inspect drive shaft/U-joints
14. Inspect brake lining thickness
15. Check/air-up tires to recommended PSI
16. Inspect all hoses & belts
17. Check all lights
18. Check hood latch for closure
19. Complete DOT Inspection

Complete Preventive Maintenance - $219.99*
This preventive maintenance package includes up to 44 quarts of oil and up to 3 filters.

1. On-Site oil sample analysis
2. Check differential oil
3. Check transmission oil
4. Check coolant level, freeze point, and condition
5. Install oil/fuel filters and tighten
6. Drain plug torqued to engine mfg specs
7. Fill with oil to proper level
8. Install/tighten oil cap
9. Start engine, check for leaks
10. Lube fifth wheel, chassis, drive train
11. Check oil level in steering hubs
12. Check power steering fluid
13. Inspect drive shaft/U-joints
14. Inspect brake lining thickness
15. Check/air-up tires to recommended PSI
16. Inspect all hoses & belts
17. Check all lights
18. Check hood latch for closure

Express Preventive Maintenance - $204.99*
This preventive maintenance package includes up to 44 quarts of oil and up to 3 filters.

1. On-Site oil sample analysis
2. Check differential oil
3. Check transmission oil
4. Check engine coolant level, freeze point, and condition
5. Install oil/fuel filters and tighten
6. Drain plug torqued to engine mfg specs
7. Fill with oil to proper level
8. Install/tighten oil cap
9. Start engine, check for leaks
10. Lube fifth wheel, chassis, drive train
11. Check hood latch for closure

Basic Preventive Maintenance - $179.99*
This preventive maintenance package includes up to 44 quarts of oil and up to 2 filters.

1. Install up to 2 oil/fuel filters
2. Fill with oil to proper level
3. Drain plug torqued to engine mfg specs
4. Install/tighten oil cap
5. Start engine, check for leaks
6. Check hood latch for closure

Dry Preventive Maintenance - $79.99*
This preventive maintenance package includes up to 1 gallon of oil (not synthetics) and 1 fuel filter.

1. Check differential oil
2. Check transmission oil
3. Check coolant level, conditioner, and freeze point
4. Inspect all hoses & belts
5. Check/air-up tires to recommended PSI
6. Check hub oil
7. Lube fifth wheel, chassis, drive train
8. Change fuel filter
9. Check hood latch for closure

Trailer Preventive Maintenance - $59.99*

1. Check brake lining thickness
2. Wheel ends for leakage
3. Air bags
4. Hub oil
5. Lights
6. Glad Hands
7. Conspicuity tape
8. Mud flaps/hangers
9. Springs/hangers/shocks
10. 5th wheel pin/mounting plate
11. Air leaks
12. Lube trailer
13. Adjust brakes
14. Doors/hinges
15. Floor
16. Sides
17. Landing Gear

 

i don't know much about trucks, but it seems like you could do all that yourself?

 

Ever try to properly dispose of used oil and used coolant?

We're not talking quarts here....We're talking gallons....

You can't toss away used oil, fuel, and coolant filters either in your trash can...They're all hazardous waste....

Hell...I could service my rig in front of my house...but the next door neighbor would call the PD out and have me arrested......

You're not even supposed to work on your own POV out in the open..in my neighborhood now....

 

Texas and country living is calling your name.

Then you could run to Cali and back.......you're all set up for it now anyway.

 

Why the hell would you continue to live in a hellhole like that?

And the dry maintenance sounds like bull. You could do all of the dry maintenance package yourself. It's a pre-trip inspection and a gallon of oil and a fuel filter!


As for used oil, you could sneak it out to autozone...they'll let you take oil to recycle for free. I mean, like a couple gallons. There's atleast 5 or 6 autozones in my area, and they do not keep records of who brings it in......and its pretty common for people to find small industrial drums (im talking about like the 4 gallon kind) to save the oil in and take it in there....


But as for a full oil change, screw it. Do you even have a jack big enough to jack the truck up?

 

I buy my oil in the 5-gallon buckets. Old oil gets stored in them until I have enough to justify a trip to town. There are several shops in town that have oil-burning furnaces that gladly accept waste oil (free heat) in any quantity.

I burn 'em in my burn barrel with my paper trash...then the metal remnants can be tossed in the trash.

I'll never understand why anyone would WANT to buy property in a location where your neighbors have more property rights on your property than you do.

It's my property. I'll park what I want, where I want, and work on it if I want...and there ain't a dang thing anyone else can do about it. They don't pay my mortgage. They don't pay my property tax. They have no say in what I do on or with my property.

 

Changing the oil on a semi isn't any harder than changing the oil on a car. In fact, it's EASIER!!! I can change the oil on my Mack without ever even putting a knee down on the ground. To change the oil in a car, you are on your back to get at the drain plug. Biggest obstacle you may have is finding a large enough drain pan to hold all of the oil. If I ever get around to welding it up, I have the stuff to make one. Until the, I use 2...fill one part ways, then slide it out as I slide the other one into the stream.

And yes, I have a few jacks that will do anything I need them to. I used a high-lift jack to change a rear airbag on the tractor. I've used a 6 ton bottle jack to grease the king pins. I've used a 20 ton bottle jack to rotate/change my tires. I've used a 2-ton engine hoist to break stubborn lug nuts loose when my 3/4" gun wasn't getting the job done.

It's all just nuts & bolts. Nuthin' ta be skeerd of.

 

I get a laugh out of #8 & 18- "Install/tighten filer cap"- "Check Hood latch for closure". Well that seals the deal for me!

I say if you have a place to do it, all this can be done yourself. If you can't find someone to take your used oil, take it to an Auto Zone or some such place they will take it.

The oil analysis is worth getting done however.

 

I like how theyre charging $80 to do a pre-trip inspection basically..cept they dont check everything! and if i do my pre-trip and my truck is a gallon short on anything, i fix that with a gallon of something before i drive... or after i drive, depending on where i parked...