Volvo 670 D13

If you are routinely hauling at gross weight I would look at 475 HP or 500 . I haul roughly half the time at 40k I have a 455 hp 10 speed 2013 and it's not terrible on the hills but I could use a bit more . At 425 hp and 500k that motor has probably taken a beating . Look at something In the 275- 300k range you'll probably pay low 60s but you won't have any major work for your first year . At 500k you're walking into some serious repair bills .

 

500k on a D13 is nothing. It'll live about 3x that mileage.
You won't see much performance difference between those two motors HP ....but .. you'll want to check the torque spec. The lower tq ratings won't pull as well obviously.

 

Since it has an Ishift thats the Xe package. It can be the eco torque. Wich gives you 2 differant torque specs.

Ok so this site has this information and can be found but I will post it here for you.

Fan clutch will need to be replaced at about 500k. If this hasn't been done you risk taking out the radiator. The water pump began to weep so I replaced both at the sametime.

Injector cups are the biggest flaw of this engine. Now your truck more then likely had the updated stainless steel cups from the factory. But eventually you may end up dropping a new 6 pack at some point.

The breather systems has a seal that likes to go bad and leaks a ridiculous amount of oil.

The normal stuff like Dpf cleaning and Def tank cleaning. I own a 2010 so the Def maintenance is something I dont worry about. Someone will chime in.

 

I have a 2016 670 with D13 455 HP ratio 3.08 and the I-Shift. It's a great truck. Runs like a top.

When I was a company driver they had the 670's with 425 HP geared at 2.64 ratio. Even those had plenty of power for the passes on the west coast.

I would say that it is always important to ask for the maintenance records of any used truck you buy. Being able to review the types of repairs will give you an idea if a truck is defective in a particular component.

Most fleet run trucks will not perform the manufacturer's recommended service intervals, other then basic oil change and lube.

I am including an attachment of Volvo's service intervals as an example. I as a 1 truck operator am following the maintenance schedule to a T, except I utilize a shorter interval on the oil changes.

My truck is approaching 150k miles and I already have the estimate and schedule in place for the maintenance items recommended by Volvo at 150k miles. The truck is my livelihood and with proper care these trucks should go a long ways in providing dependable service.

Good luck.

 

Couple other factors to consider:
Where was this truck mainly operated? Trucks that spend more time in salty regions where road salt and snow accumulate means there maybe higher corrosion, especially lower on the engine and frame. lower radiator hoses corrode more quickly. Suspension mounts, oil pan nuts..etc can be problematic at an advanced age.

Was the truck beat to death on a regular basis? PA and NY are places where trucks take a pounding because the roads are older and maintenance isn't as plentiful at times. Was this truck driven off road? How much idle time?

Mileage data alone isn't enough to make a purchase decision. You really need as much data as possible, with proof. Taking someone's word (like a salesman) for it isn't a reliable business practice.

 

I have a 2011 D13 that's rated at 425. The dealership says they can increase it to 475 for $415. I know the torque will increase because they were concerned about the limitations of the tranny but the factory gave the green light. Should I bother or will there be no real noticable difference pulling the hills?