under bunk heaters, ie proheat,etc.

I had mine installed under the left side of the bunk... the hot air exits under the bunk facing forward.

 

Can't help you with a Pete, but I got a Webasto in my Volvo that they installed it in the middle of the under bunk area, but mine is the worktable type. Keep in mind that you will need to service the actual heater unit, replace filter screen and glow plug, so I sure wish mine was accessable from above without having to unscrew a huge panel. In the side box with top access from the bunk would have been much better.

 

Here's a few pix that may help you.... the only thing i would change would be mounting the heat duct a little higher... you can adjust that 'eyeball' vent but it would help warm the bunk area a little faster if it were a little higher IMHO.

I haven't used my cab heat yet... the ESPAR keeps my feet toasty warm and it CAN be used to heat the entire cab/bunk. My bunk heat hasn't been connected in over 5 years because i can't see paying $400.00 for a heater core from Pete...

I would also insulate the mattress by placing a 1" or 2" Styrofoam sheet under the mattress... it makes a world of difference in all seasons.

 

Never heard that term 'air short circuit'... I can't imagine there being any problems with the way mine was installed. If you are concerned about 'make up air' for the combustion process just crack open a window a bit... my old Pete is not air tight by any means so I've never had a problem.

My local Thermo-King dealer did the install... the company I was leased to at the time had about 40 trucks equipped with these and there were zero problems.

 

I had Proheat unuits that were very simple. It hooked up directly to the bunk heater with a thermostat control. It also heated the engine water.

No ducting involved at all. Just running heater hoses and hot air comes thru your existing system.

I didn't like the $150.00 Proheat thermostat because it was crappy so bought one at an RV store for $13.75 and it worked perfect.

If the work in a motor home, that same thermostat will work in your truck.

 

i have used the espar on quite a few trucks--it seems good up until say -40 when you have to run the truck anyways
i do wish they would run it into the existing duct work tho--i cant see why they wouldnt
on the really cold nights--i had 3 ft of spare duct hose---i would fasten that to the outlet and into the blankets to preheat the bed while i did my paper work--hokey but it works great

 

Insulate your mattress with some styrofoam and buy an Electro-Warmth mattress pad and you'll climb into a nice, cozy warm bunk every nite even if it's -50F.....