Trying to get started in livestock hauling.

while HP is never a bad thing shop more for the tranny I would rather have 430hp with a 13 then 500 with a 10 as for finding a truck shouldn't be that hard as most will do

 

9 speeds and automatics... we have a 9 speed on our farm and it sucks. We used to have a automatic in a volvo and its rough shifting. That would be real bad on live stock. I also worked for a rodeo company in iowa and they use a auto shift for a bit and they said its way to rough for livestock. It would be ok for a freight hauler i guess.

 

I would look for a truck with at least a 500 hp motor and a 13 speed or 18 speed transmission, mainly Fuller Eaton brand transmissions. For a trailer, I prefer Wilsons because thats all I have ever pulled, but Merritt makes a good trailer too. The key on the trailers is to make sure the floors aren't worn out, that the gates all work well, and check the gate and ramp that open up over the nose in the trailer. Also, open and close the ramp in the bottom and make sure it closes ok, some Wilson's have welds that break on the rear of the trailer that causes them to get out of square. I personally prefer a Peterbilt, but Kenworth makes a good truck too. Just go with a Paccar built tractor, preferably 03 or older with a C-15 475 or 550 caterpillar, an N-14 Cummins, or a 12.7 Detroit. Get oil samples and dyno reports if possible.

 

Stay away from Detroit engines, they are flatland motors. You want a Cat, tuned right you can get 6+ out of a 550hp pushing a 10 speed 379. Nothing pulls like a Cat

 

If I were you I'd find a 6nz cat 550hp with none of that emmisions crap on it, ive never driven a cummins or Detroit that would pull like my cat, I don't care what the cummins and Detroit cheerleaders say.. And you're not gonna get great fuel mileage pulling a pot anyways, but don't let some of these clowns on here tell you you gotta have a plastic bubble truck to get decent fuel mileage, invest in a real truck like a 379 or w900, will cost you a little more up front but worth it in the end...


If your looking for a pot go with a Wilson or a Merritt.. I pull a Wilson now and it's the best trailer I've owned, I had a merrit before this one and a barret as well.. The merrrits are good trailers just not as well made IMO.. Barretts are dang good trailers for the price you can get a good used one but they are not as well made and don't have the resale value of a Wilson or merritt... Oh and get a 53' don't limit yourself with a 50' not many people want a 50' anymore..

 

If you are talking grads it sounds like you will be going into CA. So now you have to get into something newer. So you are going to want to stay away from CAT. While EGRs, DEF and Regens are a nightmare, CAT layed a steaming pile in this area.

13 or 18 speed based on pref. Fuel economy will be down with these wagons so look for something that will work well and be priced right.

But as you are making a decision make sure you are honest with yourself. Are you looking for the best ROI, want to look good or a balance. A used hood will not come close to giving you the same ROI that a similar year Century will. But, it's a Century. But that is your call.

 

Miles aren't really an issue if the truck has been well maintained or the motor has been rebuilt. What issue you will run into possibly going into California is meeting there ridiculous emission standards, and that won't be possible if you buy an older truck with an older motor. So there is a trade-off, either buy a newer truck with all the emissions nightmares and reliability issues so you can go to California, or avoid California and buy a truck with a motor that is reliable and easy to work on like the Cat C-15, Detroit 12.7 DDEC or the earlier ISX or N-14 Cummins. If you want a Cat, look for one with a 3406 E model with the prefix 6NZ, 1LW, or 2WS in the serial numbers and check the motor history.
With regards to the 6 percent grade question, I would look for a truck with an engine brake, which most should come equipped with. It shouldn't be an issue getting down the grade, just make sure the brakes on the truck and trailer are in good shape and the engine brake are adjusted, and use the lowest gear possible without letting the rpms get up too high with the engine brake on, regardless of it being a cat, cummins or detroit. I was running cattle in a peterbilt with 1.3 million miles on it that the transmission and rear ends had never been touched, just a rebuilt motor. Whatever you buy, get an oil sample done first and a dyno report.