Been doing alot of welding on our fleet of trailers. We have a pole yard so our flatbeds are treated worse than most. If you've never watched a loader unload a load of poles you know what I mean...they get knocked around ALOT.
I have been plating and welding cracks. Using a combination of MIG and stick (7018) depending on what I'm doing. Just wondering what you guys have done...experiences....goods and bads...tricks you have found to prevent cracks. Most of ours occur around the where the suspension mounts to the main I-beam. We have a few different brands of trailers. So I've seen alot of different designs. One of the strongest I've seen is the vertical gusset that runs up the length of the I-beam. Its 1/4"X2". Really seems to add to the regidity of the frame more so over just plating. Seems those have the fewest instances to crack.
Pictures would be great to. Maybe get one place where we can share and show what we have done or had done and what works and what doesn't. At some point in time the flatbed will get a crack in it somewhere. Would be nice to know before paying to have it fixed or spending the hours to fix it what the best route would be instead of just doing what you know or what the welder knows.
Trailer Welding
Discussion in 'Flatbed Trucking Forum' started by Scrapper, Apr 13, 2012.
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Can you snap a picture of what needs to be repaired?
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I have already repaired it. Did it last night. We have 20 trailers. I just wanted to see and hear others experiences and what they do for repairs.
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Oh Okay.. When you were using stick was it 7018? It's good to use because of the high tensile strength and you can do it in any position.
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I'm familiar with the vertical gusset you're talking about. The odd thing is that we only had those on our old combo transcrafts. Our new all aluminum bensens don't have any gussets, just a flat main beam. We've never had any cracking issues on out flats, but they probably don't get abused like you're taking about.
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Grind ends of crack. Heat ends to show TRUE length of crack. Mark about 3/8" PAST where you see the end. Drill 1/4" hole half to 3/4 the way thru. Or all the way thru if you are gonna do both sides. This is to stop the cracking when you start welding. Now, run a short bead across the holes perpendicular to crack. This is further insurance against further cracking. Now, V out crack and stitch weld. Let stitching cool. If vertical use a down-gate. (top to bottom) Harder to do but stronger. Stick weld it with good 'ole 6011. Dirty rod but results can't be denied. Repeat on other side if you can get to it. If it a reoccuring crack then plate it as well.
CondoCruiser Thanks this. -
CondoCruiser Thanks this.
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JDP, yeah thats what they are on. You inspect them and they have never had to be fixed or plated or anything. I'm probably going to get some strap and start adding gussets to our other trailers. Many of our other trailers are straight beam as you said your Bensons are...they crack right over the hanger.
Crusty, I've used the 6011...did not this last time. I've used them for root passes then cover with a 7018. I was having trouble vertical welding my 3/8" plate so I switched to our wire welder and did two downhill beads. I weld perpendicular like you were saying on cracks I do not plate. I have read alot on trailers to used the least amount of heat possible do to the heat treating of the metal. Being careful not to undercut. I have seen people crank the welder up and pile the metal on them. Then they crack again later....making them brittle I'm sure. Think this will be a good thread. Love reading about others experiences.
I do not drive...I'm in the shop. I like to look at the trailers that come in and drop loads....so many designs...when I go in and redo a suspension or plate I have some different ideas on factory designs adn how to go about redoing ours. Seems flatbeds differ in design more than any other trailer on the road. -
If they are older they might not have C channel welded in a "K" pattern (as seen from above) between the spread axles.
In other words take center point between axles and weld two 3" C channels right to the bottom side of left frame flange running to right frame flange in a K pattern or a V if you are looking from the left side and the top of the V would be the right frame rail.
Transcrapp did this when they had all those issues with cracking and it cured problem.
My Fontaine is made this way. -
Semi...they are older....2000 and down....early 90's is the oldest.
I know they do not have the bracing you speak of. I understand what you are saying, but let me make sure I understand. You have one centered attachment point on the left side....and two attachment points next to the axle hangers on the right side? Wouldn't the right side stresses be spread out more than the left? I may very well be misunderstanding what you are saying.
Do you have pictures of your trailer with this bracing? Thanks
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