Tire inflation

Under 80 will get you a violation if checked.
Those recommendations don't account for load weight. The weight also plays a factor for ideal pressure for each load. That being said, I have always done 100 cold all the way around and have never had irregular wear due to pressure. I hope you are buying good tires not Chinese junk. Often the expensive tire up front lasts a long time without any headaches and in the long run costs the least. Should also note the conditions you are driving in play into it also. The pressure will increase if you are driving on say I 10 in the summer. More speed = more heat = more psi = lots of blowouts on that stretch. For me, 100 cold is the way to go.

 

Yep I wouldn't go any lower than 100 psi (unless its actually stamped on the tire that the max psi cold is lower).

 

80 isn't a problem. 1/2 of the maximum cold inflation pressure stamped on the sidewall of the tire is when they deem it to be "flat". Problem is, if you run tires marked 120 max inflation and only air them to 75 psi because you run light, you aren't far from the 60 psi where they'll say you have flat tires...a slow leak gets you there in no time, and it'll thump quite similarly to the other tires.

The other thing to consider is that tire squat is something officers look for if they want a reason to harass you. If you're tires seem to be squatting more than typical, you might just have your weight checked with a set of portables. Personally, that's reason enough to keep them aired up to 100 or so. I don't like giving an officer ANY reason to stop me for a chat if I can help it.

 

I don't understand how you can have tires at 80 pounds and consider it able to carry it's weight rating? 80 to me is #### low and I consider it abuse or neglect. 100 is my number.

I never had a yoko or mich fail on the steer. Then again I have never really had a failed steer unless you count the one in which the steel belting was already bad and revealed itself on a patch of ice.

600 is alot of #### money for a tire. Im expecting 300 to 500 at most. For that kind of money they might as well be the best offered in the freaking industry. Nothing less but the best possible in terms of traction, mileage wear, weight capacity and so on.

I cannot offer much else, as a company driver I usually ask for and get a complete 10 new tires around first frost every year in october sometime usually in TN or some such. Im expensive. But I don't recall too many tows that can be blamed on bad tires in winter.

 

https://www.yokohamatruck.com/commercial/tire-tools/inflation-pressure-calculator

Every tire manufacturer has tables showing your tire size & load rating, along with the recommended pressure to run at various weights. Most are in pdf form, so search for them. Yokohama has a good generic calculator...just enter the information and it spits out the answer. Says I ought to run 95 in my steers for 12K and 80 in my drives for 34K. That is MINIMUM recommended pressures, though. I keep 110 in my steers and 100 in the drives.

 

Usually you're spot-on with your posts, but not this one. Your first two sentences are absolutely wrong.

I always follow the tire manufacturers recommended pressures which give the best combination of load carrying, ride and tire life.

 

100 to 110 is the standard.

If you want to run low. And be harassed for tires bulging. Guess that's your decision.

BTW. You didn't say anything about bearing tightness. That makes a difference in proper alignment and I believe is routine maintenance at 100k miles. They do wear and get loose. Ya know.