T680 with Paccar owe 500k miles

Discussion in 'Ask An Owner Operator' started by superTrucker77, Feb 12, 2017.

  1. superTrucker77

    superTrucker77 Light Load Member

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    Any one have any experience own one of those good or bad, need an advice about to by one, currently drive my 06 freightliner century with S60 on it and autoshift after spending over 90k in shops in 2 years it makes me think I need something newer. Will 2014 T680 with Paccar and 500k on it be any better choice.
     
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  3. 77fib77

    77fib77 Road Train Member

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    Are you out of stuff to fix on your current ride? How much is it worth as a trade or outright sale?

    Did you inframe the engine,?
     
  4. Hogleg

    Hogleg Medium Load Member

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    Beelmans in Sauget are selling their fleet 2013 Peterbilts with sleeper cabs and ISX engines at miles around 150-490K. Prices seemed pretty good. The lot is right off of I255 in Sauget, Illinois.

    http://www.beelman.com/sitemgr/index.php?page=tractors

    They provide all maint records as well. I wanted to get one but was a bit too rich for me. Take a look.

    John
     
  5. Derailed

    Derailed Road Train Member

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    Wow, $90k in 2 years. I would be trying to recoup some of that. Unlikely to see it on a sale
     
  6. 062

    062 Road Train Member

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    Might want to use the search here or google. They seem to do good till about 400-500k. Where I'm leased they have six with the paccar every time they hit the yard they go into the shop for something. One has been parked for two months because nobody can figure out what's wrong with it. Loaded light it does fine,but heavy it pushes all the coolant out in 200 miles.
     
  7. superTrucker77

    superTrucker77 Light Load Member

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    Yes, I'v inframe done at Detroit dealer in Denver, CO, I had freightliner in Tucson trying to find the electrical issue on it for 3 weeks paid 15k for that and got truck out back in the same condition, now replaced 2 heads after the inframe, on in 3000 miles after it on warranty and the other just a few miles after the warranty was over, I replaced the clutch at freightliner in Amarillo, asked them to do my rear main seal, and they did but didn't bother to let me know that the leak was on bellhousing not the seal was leaking, now I need to pull the trainy again to fix the leak.... and it still getting a lot of small things wearing here and there all the time as it is 11 years old truck.
     
  8. LoJackDatHo

    LoJackDatHo Medium Load Member

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    90K. WOW. You can completely rebuild a truck ground up for less money. You just made me feel good bout my 99 Pete.

    O/H. $7000
    New Front Axle $4500
    Clutch $1200
    Minor engine repairs $2000
    ECM $1000
    Z-Leaf springs $1200
    Other minor repairs over time $3000

    $19,900 if I did math right in my head in 10 years

    None of this includes brakes, tires, Etc with normal wear

    I forgot about a radiator, AC condenser and two CAC's $4000

    So $23900
     
    Last edited: Feb 12, 2017
    Reason for edit: Forgot something else
    HopeOverMope and Big_D409 Thank this.
  9. superTrucker77

    superTrucker77 Light Load Member

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    Overhaul $19000
    ECM around $5000 plus towing
    Clutch $5000 plus towing
    Electrical issues $15000
    Turbo plus manifold $4500 (twice once at cheaper shop and once at detroit )
    Head $4000 (twice once on warranty in 3k miles after the overhaul and once for cash just after the warranty was up)
    Rear structure oil leak (just after the clutch at freightliner, they didn't bother to let me know that it wasn't main seal leak it was the bellhousing ) $2500
    Plus all small stuff like both suspensions, radiator, ac, u joins, etc
     
  10. superTrucker77

    superTrucker77 Light Load Member

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    I was thinking about getting something newer but listening to you and reading this treat it makes me think of something older, plus no worries about the electronic books.
     
  11. Robert85006

    Robert85006 Medium Load Member

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    Might have a crack someplace that opens when the truck is up to temperature and has to strain more when developing more HP. Naked eye may not be able to detect the opening while sitting still. Steam clean and dry the engine. Shoot the outside of the engine compartment with baby powder and let the powder settle as much as possible. Drive the truck loaded then stop and inspect once the leak develops. Might be able to narrow down where the leak originates then fix the coolant problem.

    Good luck.
     
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