Have a 2013 IH 8600 with MF 11. Searched all over this forum and can’t find a similar problem/cause. After engine is shut down then restarted, the rear air bags inflate and susp/dump switch is solid green. Within a few feet or after any tiny bump, they deflate and the susp/dump switch blinks. Won’t inflate again until engine shutdown and restart. Pulling out what little hair I have over this one. Solenoid panel was removed and cleaned and both solenoids replaced because of air leaks in the push air line fittings. Horn works so ground should be good. Rear leveler was also replaced. When the switch is blinking there is no air supply to the rear leveler. Couldn’t find the body controller, removed the instrument cluster and didn’t see it. Maybe related-air psi builds to 135 but when compressor kicks off air drops to 120 in a few seconds in #2 tank. #1 tanks drops slightly and overnight both tanks are at 30 psi. Compressor runs way too much. Compressor and governor are also recent installs. A couple bottles of soap mix and I can’t find that air leak. Any help would be appreciated!'
Suspension air bags deflating
Discussion in 'Heavy Duty Diesel Truck Mechanics Forum' started by joejffrs, Oct 22, 2018.
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A few months ago I changed my drive air bags, and I couldn’t believe how much they helped with air leaks. Every few months (or when needed) I go around my truck to search for air leaks. I sprayed my airbags, but not at the bottom of it. My guess is airbags should be replaced every 500k or less.
Searching for air leaks is a learning experience. Every time I do it, I usually discover more air lines! If you are attached to a trailer, set your trailer brakes (chock tires if have some), air up tanks to max psi (about 130), release the “tractor” air supply (very important), spray the “ends” of air lines, that is where I have found most of mine.
There are airlines above each air bag and brake chamber. Spray them and follow the air lines to the other end. All air lines should lead to your air tanks. Your truck may have 2 or 3 air tanks. Spray the air lines on the air tanks, including the release valve of each tank. There may be air lines under the cab above the drive shaft; under the hood by the steering wheel rod; under the radiator. Also don’t forget to look for double female adapters that some mechanics may use to extend air line length, and I usually forget to check the two air lines that go from my truck to the trailer.Intothesunset, Rideandrepair and joejffrs Thank this. -
Thanks PE-this truck has been converted to a water truck but the trailer air lines are still there. I’ve isolated the water valves/PTO air supply from #2 air tank with no improvement. Plugs are in the fittings that supplied the trailer air behind the cab. What’s confusing is the #2 tank drops to 120 in 10 seconds after the compressor builds to 135 and shuts off. I would think you could at least hear that. Found a couple small air leaks and fixed them. Had the dash apart, parking brake valves exposed and removed air filter assembly to get a good look/soap at all air lines entering the firewall. Maybe plug the air tank fitting that supplies the trailer brake system? Don’t know how that may effect the vehicle braking air system.
PE_T Thanks this. -
Rideandrepair and joejffrs Thank this.
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Found the air leak-purge valve. Susp dump valve is solid after restarting engine but badges still deflate and switch blinks after the slightest bump. Body controller looks clean and no wire fraying. May be time for the dealer, which is going to be costly! Thanks for your input PE.
PE_T Thanks this. -
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