I've heard too many differing stories on this subject, even from Highway Patrol officers themselves. The question is about how a person is putting the strap through the winch slot. Many drivers simply fold the strap in half and stick it in the slot, and then wind the winch up. Other drivers, of course, put the entire length of unused strap through there and wind it all up.
The question is, is simply folding the strap in half and sticking it in the slot legal? As I said, even highway patrol with commercial training have differed in their own group as to the legitimate answer. I don't do it because allegedly, under great stresses (an accident most likely), the strap can simply pull out of the slot and be completely released from the winch.
Apparently this other issue about having the strap inside the rub rail as opposed to outside of it has been addressed again: you don't have to have it inside the rub rail. My question would be: why bother having a rub rail if you aren't going to use it?
Strapping a Load
Discussion in 'Trucking Industry Regulations' started by TrooperRat, Dec 29, 2007.
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I pull it all the way through and then bring it back on itself and wrapping it up then I put the wrapped up part under the strap on the load or on the rail and then wind. Most times it is 1-2 turns and then tight.
I like this way as it keeps the strap permanently in the binder but I have also used the way that you describe and never had a problem either. -
A driver told me about 8 months ago he was fined in California, for having straps outside the rub rail. Any truth to that story?
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Well up here there is, straps are supposed to be behind the rub rail, never really been enforced though.
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There are states out west (New Mexico is one i can think of) that will fine you 75 bucks per strap that isn't fed all the way through the slot. The only time i feed them all the way through is when I'm going there.
Other than that, i haven't had a problem. I keep my straps inside the rub rail at all times... So i wouldn't know about that California law, i would bet that it's true, though, knowing California DOT. -
i drive flatbed, yes the straps are suppose to be inside the rub rail, and ur not suppose to attack the hook part of the strap to the rail in any fation. Many flatbedders i see dnt heed either of those rules.
If you look up trailer manufacturer's specs or talk to someone who makes them, like i did, then u would know those rails arent built to hold that kinda weight or force. Especially nowadays with out aluminum trailers, those things are very fragile and i have to constantly yell at forklife drivers not to run into the #### rails becuase they bend them in then i cant get the hook through cuz there isnt enough room anymore. Thats why u see the "do not bump" stickers on some trailers now. Those rails are fragile and attaching things to them is wrong and unsafe.
The only thing u can attach to any part of the rail is a chain around 1 stake pocket or eye hole on the inside of the rail. Aslo the chain can't be hooked to the stake pocket or anything like that like a lot of ####### do. Per DOT the chain is suppose to loop around the stake pocket or eye hole and back up to the chain itself with the hook atleast 1" off the deck of the trailer.
As far as strapping goes ur not suppose to do the "quick release" method where u fold it and feed it in a little ways, its unnaceptable and dangerous. Flatbedding is dangerous enough as it is, but saving 10 mins to do all ur straps like that isnt worth loosing the load, loosing ur job, and making someone loose there life, when i see drivers do it i get so pissed off at thier laziness.
The strap is suppose to be all the way through and either can be rolled up or like i do feed most of it right back up through the rail and use the strap itself to secure the eccess strap while keeping atleast 3 layers of the strap rolled on the winch as required by DOT, ive been flatbedding for 3 years, hauled all kinds of crazy things, strapped like that and never had a single thing shift or move at all. -
Sno:
Good stuff there.
On the trailer I pull, there are all kinds of warning labels attached to the front of it saying all kinds of things, including what you already said about chains and chaining. I learned the art of chaining loads when I was a student, so to speak, learning how to tie down heavy equipment.
I have always pulled the strap all the way through and never even encountered this stuff with folding the strap, sticking it through or only partially through the winch-slot, and then wrapping or folding up the rest of the strap.
I've had other drivers in my company actually get offensive when this subject - that THEY brought up - is started about whether the strap should go through the rub-rail or over it. My only contetion is - what the BLEEP is the POINT of a rub rail if you aren't going to USE it for what it was designed for? And further, what's a couple of extra seconds putting the strap inside the rail? I have never put the hook on the rail, always under the trailer. To me, it's only a matter of common sense, but I do admit I think I had some pretty good training when I was - getting trained.
JB Hunt, as bad as the company is, has one good thing going for it - their safety orientation. Because I was doing a dedicated, local run, the entire crew of drivers would show up every morning and the fleet manager would go over some safety point. One day, he loaded pics of a flatbed whose load had shifted and had fallen off the trailer - right on top of a Highway Patrol car. The officer was killed. The point that was being made was - how much longer does it take to add that extra strap and make sure all your straps are being used correctly. Call me stupid, if the regs calls for 2 straps, I have 3. If it's 3, I put on 4. Costs me a few extra minutes.
bb -
The straps for the trucks are rated for 5400 pounds .... the company that I run for states that THEIR maximum allowed is 5000 pounds .... I generally add extra to the load .... if I dont think it looks right I add .... I would rather spend 10 minutes adding another strap and feel comfortable with it
I have seen many flatbeds that are so far outta the law with strapping and chaining its surprising that they havent been tagged yet
There is a book .... some people have seen it .... i believe its called "Load Securement" .... I have seen it in quite a few truck stops .... it breaks down the DOT rules for it all
Straps are to be put behind the rub rail at all times .... there are times when you cant .... and they understand that .... but when they see all the straps outside of the rub is when they get ya
I have an area that my tarp box is to close to be able to get a hook in there .... at that spot I have to wrap it around the rub .... but it is usally only 1 strap outta 10 - 12 that I have on the trailer
Its just a matter of time before they really start to crack down on strapping again
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Here ya go
http://www.fmcsa.dot.gov/rules-regulations/truck/vehicle/cs-policy.htm
If ya want to print it out .... its 32 pages long -
If your in Kentucky with straps outside the rub rail, theres a good chance of being fined. If your in Alabama, it's an even bigger chance. As far as chains on the stake pockets it depends on the trailer, if you can see the braize(welds) holding the stake pocket, you can put a chain on each side, I have done it many times with no movement of the load at all over a six hundred mile run. Some of the newer trailers have the braize(weld) inside the rub rail and you can not chain the same way on these units. Call your safety dept. DM or Fm to confirm what type of trailer you are pulling. drive55cat
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