Hey guys i drive a 15 cascadia evolution with a 10 speed eaton fuller. Ive been having long cranking issues to get started. My truck no longer starts on the first try, it always takes two times cranking and its a long crank at that.
After started at first it bucks and hickups very breifly maybe five to ten seconds.
***It only does this on cold starts**** say after several hours or long sitting periods.
****once its been started i can start it back up no problem...like say after a fuel stop or check in or whatever.
Im thinking its a fuel/ fuel pressure problem... the lines going into the head the seals around them seem to have a slight leak.
I also noticed some corrosion on battery terminal connections which i cleaned off and some at a connection under the hood on the firewall. The green corrosion.
Any help or ideas? Places to check...
My last and final thought is the clutch switch? I seen online that it can prevent truck starting when it goes bad....thanks.
Starting issues, long cranking cascadia.
Discussion in 'Heavy Duty Diesel Truck Mechanics Forum' started by CruzControhl, Jun 5, 2019.
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Did this start after a fuel filter change? If so, they probably tore an O-ring when they installed the new filters.
If this has been getting progressively worse over time, look over all your fuel lines headed to and from your fuel tank. If any area is collecting dust, then your bleed back leak could be there.CruzControhl and Rideandrepair Thank this. -
After removing your fuel filters to check the o rings, take a look inside the bowl with a flashlight to see if there are any metal shavings at the bottom. If there are, you have found your problem. High pressure fuel pump.
Intothesunset, Dave_in_AZ, CruzControhl and 1 other person Thank this. -
did you ever solve issue?
CruzControhl and Rideandrepair Thank this. -
What about check valve? Common problem on my 12.7 located in line on rear of head. Don’t know about D15 or whatever engine you have. It sounds like you’re losing prime, from a bad check valve or maybe sucking air somewhere, maybe loose fuel lines ? Check all the lines regardless. Find location of check valve, if any.
Intothesunset and CruzControhl Thank this. -
Hey issue not solved yet. Also the bucking is more brief than i said. Actually once started if you rev it to 1000rpm or put it on idle then it bucks for a second or two. Going to see if i can get it in a TA
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Better to throw some cash out the window. Better chance of fixing the problem, than taking to the TA. It’s not hard to check for loose lines, change filters and change check valve. Beats wasting time and money at the TA. At this point, you are more familiar with the problem and fixes than they are. TA Lol
Intothesunset and CruzControhl Thank this. -
Update..at a TA and their solution is to change all the batteries so were gettimg that done but i dont think thats my problem but it does seem logical. We'll see how it pans out after the replacement.
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They’re just getting warmed up, next will be cables, then alternator then $ 1000 later same problem. I hope not, don’t know why in the world batteries would be suspect. Based on the symptoms you’ve described.
Stray_Dog, Intothesunset, Trucker Kev Paid Tourist and 1 other person Thank this. -
Luckily this is a company truck and i dont pick up till later but i wanted to see what they could come up with. I could definitely do all those and would for sure if it were mine.
Oh and i know...once had a water pump replaced at ta and few days later the pulley came off...down for a week.
Then after being re-repaired the wire to the sensor on the coolant res. was left un secured on a hot pipe... i guess you hope for the best or look over work or have a list of mechanics you prefer....if i owned i would definently do what i can myself.Rideandrepair Thanks this.
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