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So my turbo doesn't always build boost especially between 9 and 10th gear. I thought maybe a turbo pressure sensor or the turbo actuator until I found this.
Could a cracked manifold be causing this problem?
Slow building turbo boost, found cracked manifold.
Discussion in 'Trucks [ Eighteen Wheelers ]' started by OldeSkool, Aug 7, 2019.
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Since I don’t see any soot tracks I say no but it does need to be fixed and keep looking.
OldeSkool Thanks this. -
Is this a new problem or been getting worse over time? Also what Engine and HP settings. Have you done a Pressure test on the CAC.
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The first time I noticed it was yesterday coming onto interstate. I couldn't get over 50 and the turbo wouldn't spool. After a while it took off and did fine. Today it did it again so I parked up.
Had an old timer tell me to close off my waste gate. He thinks its dumping my boost. He agreed with the theory that since there isn't soot on the manifold he don't think the crack is making the problem. -
Its a 14 liter 60 series detroit. No I haven't had anything checked on it yet. Try to fix stuff myself as much as possible.
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I get tired of stupid engineers putting SQUARE block manifolds and feed everything approaching 1400 degrees to a single point of failure.
We should use headers and flow the exhaust out. Turbos replaced with chargers. IT's the same thing in a different and more efficient way. Less complicated too, particularly in the high elevations of our mountains.OldeSkool Thanks this. -
Here is one.
Takes a minute before all of the cylinders start warming and begin to make music.
Crude Truckin' Thanks this. -
That looks a little bit like my truck!
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Loss of drive pressure = loss of boost pressure, pure and simple.
Soot and carbon will burn off completely at high enough temps.. An oxy torch is how diesel shops burn the crud out of ports.
Bring that manifold to someone with a tig. Preheat it, weld it with nyrod-99 and post heat it a few times or bury in sand. Just cool it slow. Plink and clink means its cooling too fast. Toss it back on and test. If boost is back [which i suspect it will be] order a new manifold when you have the $.
Before x1 can say it wont work, i have made several turbo manifolds from chopped cast iron oem downpipes that never failed. Ive done it and it works. Silicon bronze or silver braze may also be suitable but id have to look up the temps, the bronze MAY liquify and blow out, its a low melt filler that works excellent on thin gauge tin. You could probably oxy braze it on the truck if theres nothing delicate nearby.OldeSkool Thanks this. -
Edit- my first post went thru after all, my phone showed it lost.
Last edited: Aug 8, 2019
OldeSkool Thanks this.
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