Shackle Pin Replacement

Discussion in 'Trucks [ Eighteen Wheelers ]' started by VisionLogistics, Aug 14, 2012.

  1. VisionLogistics

    VisionLogistics Road Train Member

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    I'm going to replace the steer axle shackle pins on my T2000 and probably the W900L after that. Any tips or suggestions? Looks to be a pretty straight-forward job. Kenworth wants $130 per pin, but I think I found an aftermarket source selling em for about $30 each. Book time is 3 hours per side I think, so I will plan for a whole afternoon per truck doing it myself.

    Thanks.
     
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  3. Displaced Yooper

    Displaced Yooper Light Load Member

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    Interested in seeing how that job works out. I don't have any issues with mine yet, but as heavy as the front is on these T2's, I know it's just a matter of time. Please take some pictures when you do it & post them here.
     
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  4. bender

    bender Road Train Member

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    You can use a bottle jack between the spring and frame for support while rebuilding the shackles. This makes height adjustments simple when going back together. If the truck has the cast aluminum spring hanger brackets it takes a huge shock to get the bushings moving out out them on removal. A 6-8 pound sledge preferably with a short handle will get them moving. The cast steel brackets are easier on bushing removal. Usually you can drive them out with an air hammer if you have a good one, or you can slice a relief with a torch then punch them out. The relief cut with a torch works best on the spring eye bushings, then air hammer or hammer and punch or bushing driver to drive them out.

    When installing the new bushings in hanger brackets and spring eyes, I use a 10" piece of 3/4" fine threaded rod with two long nuts and huge heavy flat washers supplied by the local spring shop to pull the bushings in. Lube everything up good including the threads on the rod and they pull right in.
     
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  5. morehp

    morehp Medium Load Member

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    Bottle jack between chassi and springs is dangerous! To easy to slip out and get ya.
    Jack the whole front up from front x member and use stands under front of spring eyes. Some kw bushes are tacked in with weld gotta make sure that's goane before trying to remove bushes. If things don't line up use a chain block between springs to align
     
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  6. flc120

    flc120 Heavy Load Member

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    ive used a bottlee jack in between spring and frame was pretty cleverly setup as it was a small jack, but i had weight of truck off floor as well.

    make sure you check the play in the actual spring hanger itself could be worn or the hole could be oblonged due to wear. easy to look over and fix while you are there. i changed one side on my shaker the factory hangers were made of aluminum cast and were shot to crap on my pass side so i got a new replacement from freightliner which was a cast steel piece same dimensions and got it all put to gether in about half a days time with the jack in between spring and frame.
     
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  7. VisionLogistics

    VisionLogistics Road Train Member

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  8. maxicruise

    maxicruise Light Load Member

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    It helps to have a come-a-long and a couple of big c-clamps. We use the 1/2" threaded rod too.
     
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  9. VisionLogistics

    VisionLogistics Road Train Member

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    Well I ended up saving money by having Fleet Pride (Tranes Diesel) in Idaho Falls do it. Kenworth wanted $130 per pin (lol) just the parts price, but Tranes supplied the pins for $60 each, charging me a paltry $380 total for parts and labor. That's worth it, and they're a great shop. Very honest and they have good mechs. Every time I have gone there they have charged me 40-50% less than what I expected.

    I like them so much that I'm going back in a month to have them do a full engine gasket overhaul and put mains / rod bearings in my ISX. They gave me an estimate of only $4k for that job which beat the other shops by almost $5k.

    If you have work you need done near Idaho Falls, call Tranes Fleet Pride and ask for Andy.
     
  10. truckmechanic

    truckmechanic Medium Load Member

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    If your gonna spend that kinda money on rods mains and gaskets might as well overhaul it while your there or at least be prepared to because you will find some thing and make sure they clean it very well and plug off all oil galleys isx do not like any dirt it the oil system its a deaths sentence it will split the block on #4 main
     
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  11. VisionLogistics

    VisionLogistics Road Train Member

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    That estimate was including a full gasket overhaul, too. It leaks like a harley but makes 97% on the dyno, so we're going to get the head off and see how the cylinder liners and other internals look. If I decide to have them do the full rebuild it will only run $8500 approx., and I know now that I will likely go ahead with the rebuild. Once that far in might as well get the 2 year warranty.

    Thanks for the heads up about the dirt issue. I did some homework on the mechanic who is going to do the job. He has done a few dozen rebuilds and hasn't had any come back due to workmanship. This particular fleet pride shop impresses me!
     
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