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series 60 help please

Discussion in 'Trucks [ Eighteen Wheelers ]' started by clhart426, Sep 7, 2012.

Page 1 of 2
  1. Sep 7, 2012 #1
    clhart426

    clhart426 Bobtail Member

    43
    1
    Dec 15, 2011
    Toledo,OH
    0
    1994 detroit series 60. Story-usually takes a good 10-20 seconds for it to fire up but runs great once started. Fuel filter was rurning black with a slime almost, so replaced all fuel lines on suction side from tanks to filter to pump to head. Have not gotten to return lines yet. Still, cranks for long then fired up. Now, its a no start. Pulled return line off block, cranked and fuel does come out-to me thats saying its getting fuel, pressure however i dont know-. Strange however, when i pulled out the check vlave and turned over, it started. Reaassembled, it started 5 times in 30m. Let sit for 30m and back to no start. Repeated dissasemble and wont start now, so it mustve been a fluke fix ha. I checked ecm power, its getting 13.1volts. Took other harnesses out, cleaned, still no start. ANY IDEAS? HELP? whats the check valve do? After researching internet it seems thats a lot off ppls problem. How often do fuel pumps wear out? Whats the steps to test pressure-where do i test and what range is good pressure? THANKS FOR ANY HELP!!
     
    clhart426, Sep 7, 2012
    clhart426, Sep 7, 2012
    #1
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  3. Sep 7, 2012 #2
    Heavyd

    Heavyd Road Train Member

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    Feb 4, 2009
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    The check valve is a one-way check valve to keep fuel in the head and prevent it from draining back to the tank. They do wear out and start to leak which allows some or all the fuel to drain out of the head depending on how bad it leaks and how long it sits. When that check valve starts to leak like that the engine is hard to start after it sits. The fuel pumps are pretty good, rare to fail. You should be able to test pressure at the secondary filter or anywhere inbetween the pump and the head. Should have around 18 psi at idle, 40 at 1200 and 65 or more at high idle.
     
    Heavyd, Sep 7, 2012
    Heavyd, Sep 7, 2012
    #2
  4. Sep 7, 2012 #3
    clhart426

    clhart426 Bobtail Member

    43
    1
    Dec 15, 2011
    Toledo,OH
    0
    Srs sensor possibly?
     
    clhart426, Sep 7, 2012
    clhart426, Sep 7, 2012
    #3
  5. Sep 7, 2012 #4
    truckmechanic

    truckmechanic Medium Load Member

    534
    140
    Jan 14, 2012
    Hi Desert Ca
    0
    Sounds like a check valve to me there cheap I would change it and check the tanks and such to find out where the sludge is coming from.what does the sludge look like?
     
    truckmechanic, Sep 7, 2012
    truckmechanic, Sep 7, 2012
    #4
  7. Sep 7, 2012 #5
    Worthken

    Worthken Light Load Member

    265
    83
    Jun 2, 2012
    Delmas South Africa
    0
    I'm having the same problem with the check valve on the return line. I took it apart, and after that I'm having problems starting it. If I leave it for 5 days I have to crank it several times to get it going. It fires up but misses for awhile, so I assume the fuel drains out of the the head.
     
    Worthken, Sep 7, 2012
    Worthken, Sep 7, 2012
    #5
  8. Sep 7, 2012 #6
    Heavyd

    Heavyd Road Train Member

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    Feb 4, 2009
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    The check valve is cheap and quick part to throw at it, for these symptoms it cures it 90% of the time.
     
    Heavyd, Sep 7, 2012
    Heavyd, Sep 7, 2012
    #6
  9. Sep 7, 2012 #7
    freightlinerman

    freightlinerman Road Train Member

    1,287
    536
    Mar 4, 2011
    Florida
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    Replace that check valve. I've had one starting issues with my 91 DDEC 2 S60. I parked it, came to start it up and it wouldn't start. Had to pull start the truck to turn the fuel pump before it would fire. I never replaced the check valve, but I've done told to replace mine.
     
    freightlinerman, Sep 7, 2012
    freightlinerman, Sep 7, 2012
    #7
  10. Sep 8, 2012 #8
    clhart426

    clhart426 Bobtail Member

    43
    1
    Dec 15, 2011
    Toledo,OH
    0
    Not sure if this is a fluke fix either, but to my understanding the sensor above air comp is tge trs, which compared to new had no continuity, the new ine had. 13. The lower sensor, srs (which i broke trying to remove) had .13 and so did the new. Which i thought it needed the srs (lower) to run. But it starts good and fast now. Wel see monday morning if it was a fix
     
    clhart426, Sep 8, 2012
    clhart426, Sep 8, 2012
    #8
  11. Sep 8, 2012 #9
    Bush chook

    Bush chook Light Load Member

    144
    43
    Apr 27, 2009
    Geelong
    0
    Top sensor is srs and lower is trs sensor and yes you,ve probably fixed your problem
     
    Bush chook, Sep 8, 2012
    Bush chook, Sep 8, 2012
    #9
  12. Sep 9, 2012 #10
    heavyhaulerss

    heavyhaulerss Road Train Member

    3,723
    2,040
    Dec 23, 2009
    AL/TN BORDER
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    on the fuel back ckeck. they are always on e=bay new for cheap. you can also take yours apart & replace the -o- ring in side. that is what actually fails.
     
    heavyhaulerss, Sep 9, 2012
    heavyhaulerss, Sep 9, 2012
    #10
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