Seeking advice on a tractor/dump trailer

For dump work, you can't beat a Mack...if it's got a Mack drive train. Mack engine, Mack transmission, Mack rears. If it doesn't have a Mack transmission or rears, when you turn off the pavement and into the job site, you're no better off than if you were driving any other truck.

You can't buy a new truck with a Cat engine...they called it quits with the latest round of emissions regs. Not only that, but being paid by the ton as in dump work, the heavier the truck, the less you can haul. Big Cats are heavy. One other thing to consider, big engines require beefy transmissions and rear ends, too...all adding additional weight. Big HP & torque through lightweight transmissions and rear ends = broken parts & pieces. Most companies will spec a 12-13L engine. Make up for the smaller engine with gearing...spec a transmission with low low gears to get you rolling, and "slower" rear gears.

My truck has an E7-460 Mack engine, Mack 2180B 18 speed transmission, and 4.17 Mack rears...and I run circles around company trucks and even other O/O's any time the ground gets soft. I carry a chain in my side box, but 9 times out of 10 that I need it, it is to pull out a stuck Peterbilt. I like the 18 speed, because it's got a low low gear to get moving, small steps between the gears to work my way up to speed, and a double overdrive to keep my RPM's reasonable on the highway.

As for wet kits, around here most use either Chelsea or Muncie PTO's and pumps. Tanks are tanks, and lines are lines...get them anywhere tanks and lines are available...might even find an old fuel tank and convert it pretty cheap.

For trailers, all I've ever pulled is 39' frameless. Lightweight, and do the job I've needed them to do just fine. Just have to be careful in soft ground, because you're putting a lot of weight on that 1 axle...so it has a tendency to sink. If you dump off, and you aren't getting great traction with your drives, and the trailer axle is in a divot, you may not be able to pull forward...but if that happens, just lower the bed a little, set your tractor brakes, release the trailer brakes, and use the hydraulics to pull the trailer forward out of the low spot. I have never seen a frameless trailer used to haul asphalt. When dumping, the tailgate height lowers as the bed raises...which isn't good if you're dumping into a spreader.

I haven't seen 1/4 frame trailers longer than 35'...which would require a 3rd axle to run 80,000 (unless you can move enough weight onto your steers, or run exclusively in a state which has different weight limits AND you stay off the interstates). Nice thing about the 1/4 frame is they keep all wheels on the ground, so you're less likely to sink in while dumping. That and since the tailgate height remains constant, you can use it for asphalt.

With either the frameless or the 1/4 frame, if you are empty and get stuck, you can use the trailer to "worm" your way out....set the tractor brakes & pull the trailer toward the truck, then set the trailer brakes and push the truck forward. Repeat as necessary.

Frame trailers are a little heavier. If they tip, they generally pull the truck over with them. If you get stuck, you're stuck and need someone else to pull you out. I don't care for them much...

 

What to buy really comes down to personal preference. I own a day cab Pete with a 550 Cat 18 speed and 3.70 rears on air trac suspension. I recommend the 18 speed it works really well for the work we do. I'm not real familiar with Louisiana weight laws, but if you're limited to 80k gross then 40k pound rears and a single frame is all you will need. Anything heavier just adds unneeded weight to the truck.

If you want to haul asphalt then you're limited to either a 1/4 frame or a full frame trailer. I pull a 26' 1/4 frame Travis. It works really well and weighs about 10,500 with aluminum wheels. The best bang for the buck in a 1/4 frame trailer IMHO is a Hilbilt brand trailer which is built in Benton Arkansas. Their only down side is they're steel and weigh about 12,500 although they're about $10,000 cheaper than a Travis trailer.

A word or warning: Nearly all of the 1/4 frame and full frame trailers I have seen turn over take the tractor over with them so be very careful about where you choose to dump.

 

most guys round here run macks for offroad use like farmers and gas drillers. i run a w900 with a ravens spread axle dump trailer the w900 has a 500 cummings with a 13 speed. i usually pull on scale with just one tank full and the dump anywhere between 29000-34000. we only fill one tank because we don't use truck for more than coal and grain. its a heavy truck. now pulling wise itll pull like a raped ape. i know alot of people told me that petes r lighter than kw's. i ran a ch700 460 mack engine with a 8 speed that thing ran an was an alright off road/on road truck so maybe you could check into a mack. but most off road/ on road guys run macks round here. theres couple outfits running petes but i think the dump on pavement. im sure this probably doesn't help n you probably just wasted your time reading this i thought maybe i could give you some insight of what i see mostly running round here

 

Full lockers, 13/18sp, if it's a Pete get air-trac, 3:55-3:90 ratio (don't know the speed limits in LA)...otherwise it's the same drivetrain just packaged a little differently. The 'cherry' daycabs in the '00-'03,4,5 range are getting more scarce by the minute.

Can't help you on the trailers much. But if you plan on hauling asphalt and having an aluminum trailer with a liner, the asphalt liners are about twice the price of a regular liner. Most liners are rated for 140*, so if you dump 350* asphalt on it you'll end up with a giant turd.

There isn't one do-all trailer...buy (and don't be afraid to spend for something decent) one that'll cover what you'll mainly do. After a while, add another to do the rest.