Retorquing the Lugnuts

Discussion in 'Trucks [ Eighteen Wheelers ]' started by camionneur, Feb 5, 2016.

  1. bavarian

    bavarian Heavy Load Member

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    The biggest problem I see in tightening rims is overtorque. Most of the tiregurus tighten them with the impact wrench and then they check with the torquewrench. Sure the wrench clicks BUT what's the real torque?
    If studs are frequently overtghtened they will break at some point and wheels separate from the vehicle.
    Propper procedures while assembling and tightening is the crucial part.
    I never had a wheel come lose which was properly installed.
    I do check them when wheels were off. I have a domestic 33mm wrench with me. I check more for even torque. Or I use my bodyweight as reference. You should know your weight and adjust the length of the handle to produce 500ft lbs and put it as horizontal on the nut as possible.
    I.E. I weigh about 160 lbs. I'm taking a handle with about 3ft in length and I'm right there.
     
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  3. camionneur

    camionneur Road Train Member

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    Really? I looked a mac wrench up and it says 200-600.
     
  4. rollin coal

    rollin coal Road Train Member

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    My truck with aluminum on hub centered requires 450-500 ft lbs. My trailer with steel hub centered requires the same. I torque everything to 450 ft lbs. Usually I have everything seated well and they don't need re-torquing but I do run a couple of miles down the road and back and re-torque just to make sure. I know in a lot of shops guys just impact them on and never torque anything. A really lackadaisical attitude imo but my old company was like that. Most of your truck stop chains will do a proper torque job to protect themselves from any liability.
     
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  5. 25(2)+2

    25(2)+2 Trucker Forum STAFF Staff Member

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    Most truckstop repair shops state you must retorque within 50 miles, but I was told that is to cover 'their' liability.

    Broken studs can lead to a catastrophic failure, wheel separation.
     
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  6. camionneur

    camionneur Road Train Member

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    I think the only way to get a range of 0-600 on a torque wrench is to use a smaller one with a torque multiplier, which looks to be the least expensive option too (and allows for extra tasks beyond torquing alone, or could increase it beyond 600 also). I don't know though, that might make it too easy to overtorque them if my wrench loses calibration (and calibration testers cost a fortune). Guess I'll try a low end long clicker to be on the safe side. The multipliers are best for loosening in that case.
     
    Last edited: Feb 5, 2016
  7. Cottonmouth85

    Cottonmouth85 Bad Influence

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    I dunno how often your taking your tires off but you can get em checked at a loves alot of times for the cost of a wrench.

    Think mine was $1200.

    But it's a Snap-On digital, does ft-lbs, nm and angle
     
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  8. camionneur

    camionneur Road Train Member

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    Some are listed online for less than two or three hundred, at 100-600 ft-lb. I'm not taking tires off, just want to keep the wheels torqued on. Supposedly not leaving a torque wrench on a setting beyond its minimum helps it stay calibrated when not in use, so maybe that type can last.
     
    Last edited: Feb 5, 2016
  9. camionneur

    camionneur Road Train Member

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    By the way, does anyone here check torque on a weekly basis?

     
  10. not4hire

    not4hire Road Train Member

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    In 32-ish years... no.

    I ALWAYS get a re-torque done when wheels are put back on. I would only do another one if there were any loose lug nuts.
     
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  11. AModelCat

    AModelCat Road Train Member

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    Whoops! My bad. Mine is indeed 200-600. Wasn't super expensive either. Retails for about $700.
     
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