My forward drive axle has had a small drip that had turned into a small puddle. Seems to be leaking from what I would call the front cover. Not the power divider but where that whole assembly bolts to the pumpkin. Anyway anything I need to know about resealing this? I assume I can just drop the drive shaft pull all the bolts and pull the whole assembly away? Any parts going to fall out? Anything that needs reshimmed ? I've never had a differential apart. But I'm not afraid of a small project. Any help or pointers besides it being heavy. Is there a gasket or just use gasket maker or both?
Resealing front diff
Discussion in 'Trucks [ Eighteen Wheelers ]' started by lester, Jun 27, 2016.
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Been a while but yes, front driveshaft needs to come off, both axles out. I think the rear yoke needs to come off too but I can't remember. If you've got a diff lock you may have to manually engage it so it will clear the housing. If you're just doing a re-seal, get a couple of long bolts (like 8-10") that will thread into the housing to use as guides so its easier to put it all back together. If you don't have a hoist/crane a tranny jack or a floor jack usually works to support and help slide it out. Doesn't have to come all the way out, just enough to clean off the old sealant, remove any oil and put a bead of new sealant on.
jamespmack, Oxbow, lester and 1 other person Thank this. -
lester Thanks this.
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Pull the axle shafts. Pull driveline. I try to keep the output shaft in place and slide it out but sometimes it's a pain. Then pull your bolts and I usually let it fall onto a mud flap. Clean the sealing surface. It's just a bunch of silicone sealant. Reinstall with a transmission jack or if there is space the forklift and a chain.
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I thought I read somewhere that the bolts holding the center section should be replaced after they are removed. Something about them not yielding or holding the proper torque a second time around. Spicer sells a bolt kit so, maybe that's true.
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I haven't heard that before. I think they're just regular bolts holding the carrier assembly in. I do know they recommend replacing U-joint hardware when you re-install a U-joint. That being said I've re-used U-joint hardware with a dab of red loctite and haven't had an issue.
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Northern Mechanic is spot on. Long bolts and dont take it all the way out if its just seal. PITA. But if its not broke no need to lift it out. Can be done anywhere. Just dont knock it out and on top of you. Loctite 518 works well. Or loctite for gear lube. Either one and good to go. And like he said allways use new ujoint straps. If half round joint
lester Thanks this. -
Thanks men, I found a couple loose bolts near the top today and tightened them up maybe I slowed down the leak, we will see tomorrow. Otherwise hopefully this weekend I'll get it done right
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There you go. Just keep eye on fluid.
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We after washing years of crud off and following the leaky trail, I think it's leaking out of the power divider not the front cover. How is that to take apart?
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