Refrigerator Problem

Discussion in 'Trucking Electronics, Gadgets and Software Forum' started by madmoneymike5, Aug 27, 2011.

  1. madmoneymike5

    madmoneymike5 Medium Load Member

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    I've just purchased an Emerson 2.8 cu ft refrigerator/freezer unit for my truck. The electrical specs on the back says 1.5Amps. When I connect it to my Cobra 400W (800W max) inverter, which is plugged in via 12V socket, it blows the fuse. I cannot for the life of me figure out why. 1.5Amps is a far cry from 20, and 120 Volts x 1.5 Amps is no where near the limit of the inverter...

    Can someone explain what I'm doing wrong?

    FYI: Inverters wired directly to battery are prohibited in my company. The only thing connected to the 12V socket is my inverter, and nothing else is connected to the inverter. If it matters, I'm presently driving a 2012 Volvo VNL430.
     
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  3. 25(2)+2

    25(2)+2 Trucker Forum STAFF Staff Member

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    The lighter plug has a 10 amp fuse and the socket it is pluigged into is also most likely 10 amps, one fuse or the other will blow when the compressor in the refrigerator tries to start.

    I'd suggest returning the refrigerator unless you have another use for it until the time comes when you can use an inverter wired to the battery.

    There may be other ways, but that lighter plug is only going to put out about 120 watts max(12volts x 10 amps). 400 watts is obtained by hooking the alligator clipped cord to a source that will supply about 35 amps, and to peak at 800 watts would need 70 amps.
     
  4. BRG

    BRG Bobtail Member

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    What you are doing wrong is trying to do things "cheap" rather than doing it the right way. Sorry for being blunt ...

    The issue is not the power consumption of the refrigerator itself ... its the compressor that is tripping your inverter. Home style refrigerators are not designed for big rigs for a variety of reasons, including the fact that you'll need a 1500 watt inverter ... plus homestyle/dorm refrigerator compressors are filled with oil. RV/Trucking refrigerator compressors are not ... they are designed for the rigors of going up and down the highway.

    My suggestion is a TruckFridge TF-32 Portable Refrigerator. It plugs directly into the cig. plug (12 volt) and will also plug into AC when outside the truck. It has a built-in compressor, automatic thermostat, and also a low voltage shut-off. (Its not cheap, but its what you need .. if you are looking for a true refrigerator - not a thermo-electric cooler.)
     
    Last edited by a moderator: Sep 17, 2011
  5. madmoneymike5

    madmoneymike5 Medium Load Member

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    I'm still not sure how this current setup isn't working. Even with 10 Amps, 1.5 Amps is less than that. Why on earth would a 1.5 amp refrigerator need 1500 watts? I've read on this forum of people using a regular (not $400 truckfridge) refrigerator in an inverter like mine (12V socket vs. directly wired).

    I appreciate the responses, but could you (or anyone else) elaborate on why this setup isn't working or can't work?
     
  6. BRG

    BRG Bobtail Member

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    Lets try this again. Its the compressor that is causing the power drain and kicking out the inverter. The compressor is requiring more than 500 watts of power to run.

    You are trying to "kill an elephant with a pea-shooter". The refrigerator's compressor needs a larger inverter ... one that will require it to be hard-wired to the batteries. Your inverter is designed for small appliances ... not dorm style refrigerators.

    Also, look on the back panel of the refrigerator and tell us what the wattage rating ois for the refrigerator. it should tell you in watts, what the power consumption is for ther refrigerator. Once you find that ... you will realize that your inverter is too small for the refrigerator.

    So your choices then are ... change companies to a company that allows hard-wired inverters ... or take back your Emerson and get a portable refrigerator (like I noted before) that plugs directly into a cig plug (12 volt) ... or buy a permanent installed 12 volt refrigerator (ie. Waeco/ TruckFridge) and have the company install it for you.
     
    Last edited: Aug 28, 2011
  7. A Wise Guy

    A Wise Guy Light Load Member

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    Using this example at 10 amps...

    If your refrigerator is rated at 1.5 amps at 120 volts your refrigerator is running at 120 X 1.5 = 180 Watts

    The truck is suppling 12 volts at 10 amps 12 X 10 = 120 Watts

    180 - 120 = 60 Watts you are lacking.

    Inverter looking for more is blowing the fuse.
     
    25(2)+2 Thanks this.
  8. CondoCruiser

    CondoCruiser The Legend

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    If yours is the chrome looking one with locking doors, I have the same Emerson. But I powered it off a 2500 watt inverter. On start up the digital meter would show 150 watts and quickly drops to 70 watts.

    The thing about microwaves and fridges is they have a start capacitor which needs alot of juice for a second. I think you could upgrade to a 800 watt and be okay. But if you are going to stay in trucking you might as well invest in a big one.

    That little wire running off a cigarette lighter ain't going to carry enough juice. You need to go straight to the batteries.

    I learned the hard way too. I first bought a 800 watt microwave and a 800 watt inverter. Wrong answer. :) Buy the 2500W and you'll never have problems.

    Since your company prohibits it, there is nothing you can do but buy one of them 12V coolers. That or change jobs. Many companies allow or put inverters in for you. That should be one of your job hunting questions.
     
  9. CondoCruiser

    CondoCruiser The Legend

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    If you look on the floor where the fridge sits or behind the seat, you'll find a predrilled hole in the floor that has a plastic plug on it. You could run a 800 watt to the batteries and easily disconnect it when you go to the shop. Just an idea.
    Just make sure you protect the hole where the metal don't wear the insulation off your wire and cause a short. You might use a glad hand gasket.
     
  10. madmoneymike5

    madmoneymike5 Medium Load Member

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    But that's just it...It doesn't give watts. It gives 115 Volts and 1.5 Amps. Convert that into watts, and all I realize is that my inverter should be able to handle the load.

    Then, there's "A Wise Guy's" response with the math regarding what the 12V outlet can do. The problem there is that the fuse is a 20Amp fuse, not 10. That math still comes out to being less than what the refrigerator needs AND what the inverter can handle...

    The only thing that mathematically makes sense as to why it's blowing the fuse is the large energy draw on startup. Even then, my inverter is supposed to be able to provide up to 800W momentarily. So, my question is: How much power does this refrigerator really need at startup?

    I have a 1000W inverter, but I just don't have it hooked up, again, because of my company's policies against it. I would love to have it but I'm not one to risk my career over it.
     
  11. madmoneymike5

    madmoneymike5 Medium Load Member

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    Would love to but my truck is a VNL430. It's a heavy haul truck that literally has zero space between the seat and the bunk. I can't even stand up straight. It's a temporary truck, but how temporary is yet to be seen.
     
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