Rebuilt my fan clutch

I like to put some heavy cardboard in between the rad and fan when taking one off, just in case, and for a little extra protection if something were to slip and hit the rad.

 

Good suggestion on the cardboard, my Horton kit was around $275 so you are right about saving some bucks. One thing though, you said it was throwing oil too, this should be a dry set up, air only....kinda makes me think that you have a compressor going also and the oil swelled the oil ring in the Horton, that could start other problems as well in the rest of the system. Might have a piece of cardboard about the size of a sheet of paper hold it by a tank water drain and trip the drain slightly and see what comes out. Water , no big deal, oil not so good...
J-J

 

Yes, my kit came with bearings and all the necassary o-rings, clutch rings , front plate ect. , I would sure keep a close eye on the filter and the drain for continuing oil evidence. That sure is not much for mileage but the sitting part as you know is hard on seals. Just remember that air goes through all your brake lines to the air chambers and in the chambers themselves and all of that is rubber as well, granted it is good rubber made to stand up to moderate oil exposure but to much will eventually get those part too. It does not sound like you are pumping out oil at any great quantity or you would notice it on the stick between changes. Keep the filter fresh and a close eye on the tank drains see what happens in the next service interval. If it is still raising hell then you will be forced to do the compressor, as far as I am aware of that is the only place the air system can be introduced to oil. Do not put it off anymore than the next service interval though that is long enough to tell the story, thats your braking system there.
If the motor does not run thats one thing, but if it does run and we can't stop that is something else entirely.....
J-J

 

The way I do fan hubs is to remove the fan and then take a piece of pipe and lay it across the frame. On my FLD the pulley would be about 1/2 in from pipe so you could just roll the hub out. The last one I did on my truck was last fall after I tore my right shoulder up and I couldn't have done it without the pipe to help.

 

When your in there it's the time to make everything user friendly.

For my fan studs I cut them down since they were so friggin long and locktited them in there and used ss nuts with never seize on threads.

When I had my radiator out I welded SS nuts in the channels for the radiator support. For the fan shroud I use ss bolts.

No more stuck/broken fasteners in there for me.

 

Beware, when replacing the bearings on a Horton, each bearing must come out the same way or side it was installed. There is a shoulder built into the hub between the bearings. If you attempt to use a hydraulic press to remove the bearings by pushing them straight through together at one time you will sheer the hub shoulder out of the hub. Don't ask me how I know!

 

Question:
Is there just a seal and bearing kit for the Horton clutch?
My clutch plate is fine. It's just leaking a little air, and I'd just like to change the seals, along with the bearings, since they would be easy to do while it was disassembled.
Called the local KW dealer yesterday, and the Horton "Master" rebuild kit is $380 + tax. I'd like a cheaper alternative.
Thanks.

 

I can verify this information. Don't ask me either. LOL