Rebuilt engine one million miles

It's according to who rebuilt it and how much they did on it. Some dont do the whole engine. They don't put new injectors or the cam shaft. It's the luck of the draw. I in framed mind last March and didn't put new injectors. But that's because i knew the truck.

 

It's luck of the draw on rebuilds. The older pre emissions truck are better to rebuild then the new emissions engine. I had Detroit S60 rebuilt at 1.2 million but did not replace the turbo or the bull gear or ECM or the wire harness for the engine. All that stuff is extra and unless someone has the paperwork you would t know what their definition of a rebuilt engine is. On my S60 since the engine block had 1.2 million at rebuild time they would only warranty the rebuild for 1 year. Normally you get 3 years.

Some companies like Pittsburgh Power claim they can rebuild an engine better then new because they straighten out the block. They say a new engine block will bend or from heating and cooling on a new engine. So an old engines block can be rebored and straighten out cam shaft. Then put back together and they also get matching piston weights. So they claim they can rebuild a engine better then one from the factor. They charge like $25,000+ vs my $12,000 rebuild with some old parts.

 

First off as mentioned, the term rebuild means different things to differnet people, to me it means ground up rebuild with everything replaced.

Second as mentioned it depends on who does the work, I only know a few who can actually rebuild a truck engine better than new and it isn't PP - sorry brandt.

So I would actually not get something that is high mileage because the engine is one of five parts of a truck that matter and you want to make money, not spend it on some junk.

Brandt, the reason they, and others used older block is because of a term; "stress relieved". If you know any one who is serious about performance cars, they will tell you never to use a new block, always use an old one with at least 70k on the engine because these are the best. I don't get the idea of crate engines with new blocks, to me those are just drop in replacement engines. Most people who think new is better don't understand the metallurgy that goes into rebuilds and the ones who do have the engines producing the most power. AND another thing most good re-builders will balance the rods and pistons, not too many truck re-builders know what they are doing, they just throw the stuff in and hope.

 

Well I can't tell you how to do it but here is the thing, between the autoshift trans and the engine, the problem is that costs for repairs would hit something about $25k or better. The price of the truck is part of the problem many run into, they are not cheap for a reason and the cost to fix it to make it road ready or safe may be more than it is worth.

For the beginner I would look less than 600k, but there is a process that you need to follow to check the truck out, this includes a dyno, blow by and so on, I've posted maybe 100 times about this, so just read what I posted at this link -

https://www.thetruckersreport.com/t...st-truck-purchase-advice.326206/#post-5507308

Read it a couple times.

 

I bought a truck with 700k miles and put $24k in repairs, maintince the first year. This was for the truck, trailer and upgrades. I did all but a few hours of labor myself so that's just parts. I'm starting my second year now and need a major engine repair or rebuild in the next few weeks. On track for about $32k plus in repairs, maintince and upgrades this year. If your not handy with a wrench you better be good at getting premium rates.

 

Yes all at once, trucks are expensive and costs money to properly fix.

Here is a real world situation - it happened to a guy I know who thought he was smarter than most of the experienced people.

I'll put you in his shoes.

OK you buy a truck for $21k, it is a good looking W900 KW with all the chrome. Of course the owner said it had an in-frame just about a year ago so you trust the guy and you don't check it out.

Four months down the road the engine takes a crap on you.

Of course there is sort of a warrentee (sorry spell check won't let me correct the word) that was transferred from the owner to you but that only takes care of so much, sometimes it get you back on the road with minimal amount of costs - the engine needs an overhaul but they just patch it together.

Now that takes 2 weeks, that is 2 weeks of lost revenue (not wages) and lost opportunities plus the costs of housing and food while the truck is being fixed.

So you're back on the road, making money and turning wheels.

Then after a month you have a transmission wiring harness take a crap on you, but the tech is stupid (a lot of them are) and replaces the solenoids and you get down the road about 300 miles and the trans just craps out so you have a tow, more down time and then find out that you have metal in the oil and the trans needs to be replaced.

The costs for the trans is about $11k used with another $2k for labor (I may be off on the costs but hey I got rid of all the autoshifts except three). so this is another week off the road and again lost revenue and cost of housing and food.

So I could go on but I think you can figure it out, the important thing is to remember that you want to keep that truck running all the time (even if you don't run all the time) and mitigate all the risks of breakdown as much as you can to making sure that it doesn't break down on the road. THIS takes money. MONEY that you will not have from the start and why I say don't be cheap, buy something that may be a bit more on the front end of the business that will pay you on the back end through reliability.

 

QUOTE::::On track for about $32k plus in repairs, maintince and upgrades this year.

So you already spent $24,000 and now another $32,000? I really hope you got the truck really cheap. Did you go over this truck and dyno it before buying? That is crazy money.