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Rear main seal

Discussion in 'Trucks [ Eighteen Wheelers ]' started by Tug Toy, Oct 31, 2015.

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  1. Oct 31, 2015 #1
    Tug Toy

    Tug Toy Road Train Member

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    Something I learned this week. Although I have worked on a lot of cars and pick ups in my life for fun and to get back and forth to work. I have never REALY done any serious work on semis. Well I recently bought my first semi and part of my buissness plan is to do as much of my own matinince and repair as I can. So in replacing the trans I am also replacing the clutch, rear main seal and motor mounts. Here is somthing interesting that I learned:
    The rear main seal in these are actually very different than what is in a chevy v8 or any other engine I have seen. It is a 2 piece seal that is put together during manufacturing. So instead of the seal pressing in on the block and whiping the crank it presses in to both the block and the crank and whipes aginst itself internally. This is brilliant as I have witnessed the rubber seal actually damage the crank before requiring the crank to be replaced or machined and the use of a special oversized seal.

    Thought this was very interesting and wanted to pass this info along for others as I found this to be a very cleaver and simple solution for a long life motor.

    The rest of this job seems pretty strait forward job other than the nut and the yolk swich over. That was a bit of a female dog!
     
    Tug Toy, Oct 31, 2015
    Tug Toy, Oct 31, 2015
    #1
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  3. Oct 31, 2015 #2
    DaveLV

    DaveLV Light Load Member

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    If you have a problem with your rear main seal you should check the run out on you flywheel housing. Rear main seals are like wheel seals. Where the internal band seals to the crank and the external band seals to the flywheel housing an integral seal. The seal is actually between the two. No longer do we disturb rear main seals for clutch replacements in the shop. If an issue arises where the seal has failed it is usually not due to wearout. I would check to see what the runout is and find spec for your engine and see if you are within tolerance. Usually they range .004" to .008". You take your measurements at 4 locations 12, 3, 6, and 9 o'clock positions. The if the flywheel housing it out of spec then the fun begins with realignment.
     
    DaveLV, Oct 31, 2015
    DaveLV, Oct 31, 2015
    #2
  4. Oct 31, 2015 #3
    Tug Toy

    Tug Toy Road Train Member

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    It was just weeping ever so slightly. No drips or anything. I was told I should replace at 700k since the trans was coming out anyways. Same with clutch. The one coming out looked pretty good to but the jury said replace since trans is out. I don't know? I do know the motor mount were toast like everyone said they would be. Lol
     
    Tug Toy, Oct 31, 2015
    Tug Toy, Oct 31, 2015
    #3
  5. Oct 31, 2015 #4
    Ozdriver

    Ozdriver Heavy Load Member

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    image.jpeg
     
    Last edited: Oct 31, 2015
    Ozdriver, Oct 31, 2015
    Ozdriver, Oct 31, 2015
    #4
    G13Tomcat Thanks this.
  7. Oct 31, 2015 #5
    Ozdriver

    Ozdriver Heavy Load Member

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    You will need a special installer tool like this one.
     
    Ozdriver, Oct 31, 2015
    Ozdriver, Oct 31, 2015
    #5
    G13Tomcat Thanks this.
  8. Oct 31, 2015 #6
    Tug Toy

    Tug Toy Road Train Member

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    Yup. The one I used pulled the old one and pressed the new one in. The seal did come with a plastic thing you could use to bang the new one in with a hammer. You can use some screws and a side hammer to pull the old one. The shop down the road said that's what they do but I found a installation tool (press) from another buddie of mine. Retails for about $350.00. I pay people I borrow tools from %10 of the price of buying one. Never had a problem borrowing tools.
     
    Tug Toy, Oct 31, 2015
    Tug Toy, Oct 31, 2015
    #6
    MJ1657 and G13Tomcat Thank this.
  9. Oct 31, 2015 #7
    Tug Toy

    Tug Toy Road Train Member

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    What motor is that? Must be some sort of Cat huh?
     
    Tug Toy, Oct 31, 2015
    Tug Toy, Oct 31, 2015
    #7
  10. Oct 31, 2015 #8
    Ozdriver

    Ozdriver Heavy Load Member

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    CAT 3408. The front and rear housings were fretting and leaking oil so after a couple of years of putting up with it I finally pulled them off and got them machined and resealed them. It's a monster job.
     
    Ozdriver, Oct 31, 2015
    Ozdriver, Oct 31, 2015
    #8
    G13Tomcat Thanks this.
  11. Nov 1, 2015 #9
    spyder7723

    spyder7723 Road Train Member

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    I never had the pleasure of a v8 cat. They were a beast to be contended with back in their day. I had to settle for a lil old v12 Detroit, not a bad engine itself, but certainly no kitty cat.
     
    spyder7723, Nov 1, 2015
    spyder7723, Nov 1, 2015
    #9
    Ozdriver Thanks this.
  12. Nov 1, 2015 #10
    spyder7723

    spyder7723 Road Train Member

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    That's how I've always changed them. A hammer, just like a wheel seal. Haven't had to pull one back out yet.
     
    spyder7723, Nov 1, 2015
    spyder7723, Nov 1, 2015
    #10
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