Rear axle seal replacement

first of all check axle ventilation.

to change this seal - remove wheels, remove hub drive shaft, use 4" socket to unlock and remove nut ( bearing is held with) and remove hub.

How to change you will see.

Keep all clear, avoid dust and sand there!

Use manufacter's manual to do all. Axe ID is on small plate secured with riviet ore welding on axe body.

 

like pablo-au said check ventilation, this is something mechanics even forget to do at times. if you replace seals and have a ventilation prroblem then the seals will go again.

 

Doing a wheel seal is one of those jobs that if you don't know what you are doing then you shouldn't be doing it. Since you have to back off the brakes, remove the wheels, wheel bearings and then reassemble it all there are lots of pitfalls you can encounter if you don't know what to look for. If you do something wrong this is where you can have wheels, or the hub assembly separate from the axle while driving and cause property damage, injury or even death to others! Wheel seals are easy and a normal repair for most shops. They require a large number of proper tools to do the job right, 3/4" drive torque wrench for at least 250 ftlbs, (450 for outboard drums). One that does 50. Proper axle nut sockets, 4" usually. Proper seal installer. If you have Dayton style wheels you need a wheel dolly too. If you do it yourself and that wheel ever comes off on the highway and hurts someone, your life is over!! I would just take it in somewhere. Usually about 1 1/2 hours labor plus parts. The bearings will be inspected and replaced if needed too.

 

The axle looks like old style Meritor, and I've forgoten to say that every time you remove wheel hub you need to push at wheel speed sensor with finger and during reinstallation pole ring moves sensor back, but if it cant be moved with hand never you hummer ore prybar becouse pole ring will be bent and ABS will not work, so if you cant move WSS, remove it, change sleeve ore mount (if sensor was not damaged) and assembly all.

The secret is when you loosen wheel nut and you pull hub assembly you will rock it a bit and you will push ABS sensor to 1-3 mm and it will not work at low speed becouse of air gap.

US trucks have no rear brake pressure limiters and w/o ABS you'll get exessive tire wear and bobtailing will be dangerouse.

 

It's not a hard job, but you need a few specialty tools and it is not a job you want to do wrong. I had a tandem come off a few weeks ago. Luckly I caught it before the axle came all the way out of the housing. If you don't tighten the lock nuts properly and you lose a set of tandems on the highway and hurt someone you will lose everything you own. Take it to a mechanic you trust and pay him for the 1.5 to 2 hrs it will take.

 

.002" - .005" bearing play when done. I use dial indicator myself so I am sure.

Park on level ground because you will need to top off gear oil.

Cross lug wrench ain't gonna loosen anything. You need 3/4" drive breaker with a 3 -4 foot pipe for extry oomph!

Get the service manual. It's all in there.

 

I would like to know where to find one that isn't outrageously expensive?