So, my truck started running hot on Friday, the alarm and lights never came on, but I did see it get close. Made it back to the yard so I checked and topped off the coolant. Monday, i tried to pull a load and got the alarm and lights. Dropped the load at an alternate company yard, checked the coolant level (it was ok) and bobtailed back to the shop....220 degrees, but no more alarm or lights.....
Today we pulled the truck into the shop, mechanic and I drove around warming the engine up, then checked the hoses into the radiator (both were hot, so thermostat was open), then started to blow out the radiator with compressed air...and.....the thing started to fall apart...flakes of metal started flying off....time for a new radiator...
I called Peterbilt and they want $2,700 for a new radiator (including the whole cowling, frame and gaskets) or $1,500 just for the radiator....
My shop, feels they can get a better price on it (they only use OEM parts, but have an alternate supplier)..so I wait for a quote....
Prices seem a bit excessive....
Anyone, know a good, quality replacement at a better price????.. should it be aluminum, copper or plastic???does it make a difference???
Radiator is done!!!!
Discussion in 'Peterbilt Forum' started by RERM, Jul 26, 2016.
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US radiator or Detroit Radiator.. Bought mine paid $395 Just for the core
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I just did one of these i believe it was national radiator in bridgeview or the other is rex radiator in bensenville they will be able to get you a better price keep the old radiator for scrap cuz they are worth close to 70 to 100 being that they are copper and the new one comes with the core and the bolts shop has to assemble it. i can get you better pricing from pete jx i think when i checked the core alone was about 1200 and whole radiator my pricing was about 2300
BoxCarKidd Thanks this. -
Is it common practice (outside of stealerships) to change the ENTIRE shroud and frame when putting in a new radiator????
I mean, I understand if your in an accident and the frame and shroud are cracked or totaled, but to do it when all you have is a bad core????? -
Dealerships get the OEM parts cheaper. Of course the dealership has to markup the cost of those parts to turn a profit, but so would your alternate supplier.
You might want to check and find out if your shop is actually getting OEM parts, or OEM imitators. If you're actually in the market for OEM but being sold look a likes, that's probably not something they want.
There's a lot of aftermarket parts that work identical, and look identical, to the OEM. -
ive changed a lot of these and only once changed the caps at the customers request cuz they were extremely rusty other than that alway put them together and let it go with the caps they have it is a little bit labor intensive more than other radiator cuz those caps have around 150 bolts you got to remove and install but never have i had one leak afterwards. so keep the caps you have and change only core
RERM Thanks this. -
I have very little to offer here. The one case of overheating we have had ever was a result of a bad cap. Pressure tested the cap and it failed. Something very small and simple. But after a period of weeks and many expensive shop visits.
I feel fortunate that all my time on the road including Petes, I have only had two incidents of coolant issues. One was a CAT water pump failure which dumped all the coolant once shut off, and the other the famous 15 dollar cheap cap after thousands in visits to several big shops. -
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Don't know, but the delivery trucks say JX Peterbilt, they buy their Volvo and PACCAR parts through them, they use Truck City Gary for Freightliner parts.
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