Questions about Aluminum Polishing

I've had good luck with the Wizards metal polish that comes in the tin can(it is actually the old Quaters stuff) although it takes alot of time to use it. I currently use the green Intimidator Pro Polish, it does a really good job and doesn't take as long as the Wizards. The shine might not be quite as good with the Intimidator as the Wizards, but I can live with that when it only takes me an hour to polish instead of the three hours that it took with the Wizards.

 

Just got put into a brand-new Freightshaker (2011) with aluminum wheels, and I'd like to keep it looking respectable. I understand that I'll have to "cut" the aluminum before it will hold a shine but have no idea what this means, or how to do it. Can anybody give this greenhorn a clue?

 

Being it's a 2011 I can't imagine the wheels being bad enough to need much work to get them to shine.

 

You're probably right. But these wheels (as well as the rest of the tractor) were pretty shiny already when they handed me the keys, and I'm just looking to keep it that way.

 

I think white jeweller s rouge some flour and some carnuba wax and your rugs aluminum should stay shiny for a while

 

Don't polish or have them washed with acid in the winter. It's been my experience if you polish them and run in the salt for a while the bare corrosion free aluminum pits horrible. Just keep them washed and touch them up in the spring. It's not hard to keep them shiny, it's just hard to bring them back if you let them go.

 

The term "cut", as it pertains to polishing aluminum that hasn't been machine polished before, is a process of spraying an acid on the aluminum prior to polishing. The acid is usually sprayed on the aluminum and rinsed off in about 15 or so seconds after it was applied. Any longer than that is not recommended. What the acid is doing is softening the metal to a depth measured in the hundred thousandths of an inch in preparation for polishing immediately afterward, usually using a high speed buffer CAREFULLY. If whomever is handling the buffer is not careful they could "burn" the metal and/or leave swirl marks that will be very difficult to remove, even for a skilled, experienced polisher.

The cutting process is hard work, and will usually leave the person handling the polisher black from the aluminum oxide dust mixed with the dust from the polish. Wearing a dust mask to prevent breathing in said dust is necessary. The machine used to polish is heavy and bulky and looks like a heavy duty angle grinder. Actually, some polishers use a modified angle grinder like a Milwaukee. The modification consists of reducing the rpm down from 10,000 rpm to a more manageable rotation. I've known polishers who use the 10,000 rpm machines, but they MUST work fast to avoid burning and/or swirling, and the polishing pad HAS to remain in contact with the metal. If the contact is broken, the rpm rapidly increases and the pad can disintegrate almost immediately, becoming unbalanced and very hard to hold on to. Imagine the damage potential a polisher locked in the ON position can cause if dropped.

Properly done, an experienced polisher will start with a stiffer polishing pad using an aggressive polishing compound that comes in a dry bar with a brown color, (tripoli) or, in extreme cases when the aluminum is pitted or gouged, a black color (emery). Then change to a softer polishing pad with a different polishing compound to bring out the desired luster. An experienced polisher will not mix polishing compounds on the same pad, they'll change pads whenever they use different compounds. There's usually an additional one-time charge per session for changing the pad, so it's a good idea to inquire about that first. It's also a good idea to determine, exactly, what method they'll be using and what materials will be utilized. A quality, professional polishing service is your best bet, rather than a fly-by-night, here today, gone tomorrow individual who may, or may not be proficient and could easily do damage, --- especially on larger surfaces like tanks. Mistakes made on tanks are very noticeable and hard to correct.

For the final finish, the common choice of compounds is usually a green colored bar. Sometimes a blue bar is used for a slightly different final coloration. White bars are intended for use on stainless steel, red bars (jewelers rouge) are the finest abrasive, intended for finishing to a mirror finish. Starting with the red compound will take a LOT longer and may not produce the finest sheen possible. The bars of polishing compound can be found at truck stops that sell cleaning products. They're made of the actual powdery substance held together with tallow (animal fat) which also acts as a lubricant and keeps the compound in contact with the metal. If there's a dog present keep an eye on the bar, --- dogs like to chew on them.

Experienced polishers often mix their own blend of polishing compound by heating ground up bars in a double boiler to reduce it to a softer, paste like consistency, then adding mineral oil and bottling it. The compound will settle to the bottom making shaking necessary. Some experienced polishers use such a mixture exclusively because they prefer the cooling effect that a liquid provides, which also cuts down on the dust produced, the drawback is that it spatters.

Be cautious of those who sell homemade blends of easy on -- easy off polishing compound in a bottle at or near truck stops. Those mixtures have been known to contain the same acid used for cutting. When they demonstrate how well it works, notice they use one bottle and sell you a different bottle, for whatever reason(s) they claim. Too often the real reason is the acid content in their bottle is higher than what they sell.

The results are impressive though.
A super bright shine with less effort in less time, --- what's not to like? What that super shine requiring way less effort looks like in a day or two, that's what's not to like. It's the acid contained in the mix that's supposed to be rinsed off within 15 to 20 seconds after application that remains in contact with the aluminum even after the polish dries and has been wiped off. Even in small amounts it will cause the aluminum to appear dull and black within 24 to 48 hours. Imagine what applying it without wearing gloves could do to hands.

As has already been mentioned, there's no such thing as an easy on -- easy off product that will produce a shine anywhere near the shine produced with good, old fashion, elbow grease. The product that comes closest to a machine buffed, high gloss finish with the least effort is what used to be sold under the name "OUATOR" -- pronounced "water". Google the word OUATOR for the name it's sold under now by the company that bought the original company. That stuff is amazing, and it works on Stainless steel, magnesium, copper, brass, chrome, and even smooth plastics. It's formula is impregnated in cotton that you just tear off, apply by rubbing on, then wipe off. When the cotton turns black, it's still working, unlike other such products that when the applicator turns black it's time to discard it. A little bit goes a long way. None of the similar products that I've used produce anywhere near the same results. Using this product after machine polishing will keep the high gloss shine shining so well that it's not necessary to machine buff again any time soon, if ever, --- unless the aluminum is exposed to salt or other harsh conditions. Using a quality sealer after application is a good idea and can extend that just polished look longer.

New aluminum wheels can have a clear coat applied to protect the metal from the elements, but they won't have a shine as bright as polishing can produce. The clear coat must first be removed before they will accept a high gloss polishing. Removing it by hand can be harder that polishing them. There are chemicals that are used to accomplish removal, but it's better to leave that for a professional to do.

There's an old saying among hot-rodders ----
Speed costs money. How fast can you afford to go?
That saying, modified, is the same -------
High gloss shine costs money. How shiny can you afford to be?
Make no mistake, the best shine is labor intensive. The best shine on wheels is obtained by removing the wheel from the vehicle. Even better when the tire is removed. Ideally, a new wheel right out of the box is the way to go. It's easier and the results are outstanding. There are places that use a machine that rotates the wheel during the polishing process that can even polish the inside of the wheel, popular with those who have show trucks that they enter in competition. Those folks are so detail oriented that they use a toothbrush and Armour-All type products to clean the tread on the tires before the judges do what judges do.
I doubt those driving working trucks are willing to go that far.
But, in spite of the work and effort involved in polishing aluminum, when it's all done, and y'all step back to admire the results, it's worth the effort and expense, IMO.
Take pride in your ride.
Class is a clean Big truck, and speaks volumes about the Big truck truck driver drivin' it.

 

Blue magic has amonia in it and will oxidize aluminum. seal them with collinite metal wax last longest. check me out on facebook for polishes you'll love. scotty medlin cayce,s.c.

 

my trick is ,i have my kids shinning the tanks,wheels,grill etc. i told them ill give em $30.00 i think there using mothers. in the past on motorcycles ive had good luck with "never-dull" oh and get some of those micro-fiber polish cloths

 

Also, depending on what brand of wheels are on it they may be durabrights or level ones if they are Alcoas, neither of which need polished. Just keep them clean with soap and water.