Mine stopped yesterday.
Located behind the glovebox bucket. I had replaced mine for 'why not now' reasons last year. This is after I cut out the other 'fixes' and used Kuject connectors. (On the road).
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Somebody had a good idea and used a weather pack connector, but the wires were around 18-20 gauge. Then the two sets of butt connectors (crimped) - the black taped section was when I replaced the unit, soldered and wrapped.
It quit on the drive, and a wiggle of the blackened butt connectors revived it till the days end.
My advice is to direct solder if possible. I use a little propane torch.
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The wires on the new motor are red-power black-negative, but I see that using a voltmeter - and changing speeds 1-2-3-4 - the power shows 12V, but the black wire records voltage increasing from 4-3-2-1.
Somebody smarter can probably explain, but I'm guessing that the resistor in the fan control is responsible for this.
Even with fan motor off, voltage is still supplied, so remember to key off before connections.
And I'm guessing this would explain the overheated burnt butt connections.
More explanations and advice welcome.
Peterbilt 379 blower motor 1995
Discussion in 'Trucks [ Eighteen Wheelers ]' started by blairandgretchen, Aug 22, 2023.
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Regarding the black butt connectors. I was going to say that someone tried to heat them but looks more like burnt from the inside. High resistance due to a poor connection will cause higher heat and the burn marks. Or a fan going bad drawing too much (more than normal but not enough to blow the fuse or breaker) could have caused the connections to get hot resulting in the burn marks.
Look closely at the Kuject box under Feature. The 4th bullet point states 'solderless'. Bullet point 5 states in part: ...'hot melt adhesive and SOLDER inside'....
LOLRideandrepair, ‘Olhand, blairandgretchen and 1 other person Thank this. -
There’s a very thin amount of solder in there, I like to soak the wire solder in connections and use heat shrink tubing at home.
I left the copper strands untwisted and shoved them together inside the Kuject.
I was initially confused by the voltage reading on the black wire at different fan speeds.
Must draw some power - all those connectors were pretty warm.Rideandrepair and wore out Thank this. -
Check amp draw on the motor during operation. Any resistance to airflow thru the system(blocked heater core or EVAP core) will also increase amperage. Even the factory connector will get hot and melt and a single good hard splice will usually suffice but soldered connection is better.
Rideandrepair and blairandgretchen Thank this. -
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blairandgretchen and Rideandrepair Thank this.
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Looks like my cab blower motor. Had a short on the fan side. Cut the Truck side by mistake. Yes I butchered my own wiring. Also tried to use a bunk blower instead by swapping the plug ends. Bunk blower turn’s Opposite way. Explains the different plug. Lol. Swapped wires, but squirrel cage is still opposite. Finally got it fixed right. Have since replaced it with my spare. What happens is the motor gets worn and spins slower. Problems aggravated by built up dust. The wires then get hot. You can check this and that. Easy way, feel the wires. Hot - not good. Lol. Replace fan, and notice how much better it works. I’ve got to do mine now. Wires are pretty hot, and fans blowing very little. Tip - Don’t spray the motor with any WD or especially silicone spray. Did that on my first Truck, had it spinning good again, till it burst into flames. Almost set my Truck on fire!! Good times!!
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Only seen them used for house wiring.Rideandrepair and 86mechanic Thank this.
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