OK, truck is a 1998 F800 with a 5.9 12 valve and Fuller 6-speed. The truck was spec'd at 210 hp. I think that's 420 tq or so. The trans/clutch are good to 660 tq.
If I put in the 3k gsk and replace the fuel plate, what fuel plate would bring it up close to 650 tq, and about how many hp would that be? I'm guessing I'll probably have to think about another turbo as well, but not sure about that.
P-Pump Cummins question
Discussion in 'Heavy Duty Diesel Truck Mechanics Forum' started by DRTDEVL, Apr 5, 2022.
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If your pulling somewhat heavy for that size I wouldn't turn it up too crazy. You can also do the Mack rack plug. It will give the rack an extra 2mm of travel up to 21mm. Bump the timing up 1-2 degrees, nothing radical.
Here's some diff cuts. Pyro is also needed if you don't have one
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The GSK is about ability to hold 65-70. Right now it will hold 68 mph all day when unloaded, but put my empty car trailer behind, and that drops to 66. Throw a vehicle on it, and 64 becomes the max cruising speed due to the fuel cut winding down as it approaches 2500. I don't need a speed racer, but something that can climb a grade at a reasonable speed and run 65-70 on the flat lands would be nice.
One more question: Being only 210 factory hp, should I also be looking at bigger injectors? How much will those stock injectors support?Last edited: Apr 5, 2022
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Don't turn it up unless the person driving it has enough common sense to keep the rpms up and egts down.
Bumping timing helps a ton with power and fuel mileage.
Adding fuel is only helpful within the useful range of your turbo and headgasket. Too much fuel on a stock turbo and you'll be making heat instead of power. Too much boost from over fueling the stock charger and you'll lose the headgasket.
Adding power is best done as a full system rather than a single part or adjustment. Bigger nozzles need a bigger injection pump which needs a bigger lift pump. All that fuel is useless without more air from a bigger turbo or cleaned up airflow in and out of intake and exhaust. Without headstuds, you're on borrowed time...
Look up 12 valve hp recipes it will give you a rough idea of the extent that things snowball as you aim for higher levels of hp.BoxCarKidd, God prefers Diesels, Brettj3876 and 1 other person Thank this. -
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Funny thing, I looked up "1998 F800 specs" online to see if I could narrow down the torque number, and I found the truck I bought listed online at a dealer. I bought it last year from the guy who I assume bought it at this dealer and he fixed it up real nice in the whopping 3k miles he drove it, removed all the old company markings, and cleaned it up pretty decently
1998 Ford F800 -. -
I wouldn’t even drive it without a pyrometer. Way too easy to get it too hot and melt something.
Last edited: Apr 5, 2022
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For what you're doing the 12mm pump will be more than enough. About 550cc is the max for à 12mm with it opened up all the way with full cut delivery valves. Close to 700-750hp with a stock pump is the numbers I've heard. Obviously you probably don't plan on going that high.
They use the same 12mm pump on the early E-7 Mack. More than enough for your 12V.
I would head over to a Cummins forum them guys will set you straight with what injectors and turbo to useGod prefers Diesels and LameMule Thank this. -
@God prefers Diesels could probably give a few pointers
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I would not turn it up and work it without studs & rings. Those Cummins Love to spit head gaskets out when making any amount of power without head studs.
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