As some may know, we have a 1978 Small Cam Cummins Engine in the 359 Pete. It began life in 1973 as a 290 but now we have no idea what it is. Prior owner (farmer) reported that it had been rebuilt by another farmer when it was in an Autocar, and then moved over to this truck around 5 years ago. Said it had been on the farm for all that time hauling grain to the local elevator. So much for the history story. Farmer seller estimated around 100K after the inframe. Who knows if it is true or a fairy tail.
Oil analysis came back ok, no serious issues noted. Truck starts well and idles smooth. New fuel filter, fresh oil change, etc.
Air intake is dual Vortex cans feeding 6 inch intake tubing with no air to air cooler. Filters clean. Exhaust is 5 in coming out and down then changes to 6 in straight pipe stacks. The engine is coupled to an eaton fuller 13 speed. The tires are 24.5 tall with a 411 rear end ratio.
Now on to the main question - drive-ability. Road is I-64 from Mount Vernon Illinios to the river. Gentle hills, mostly straight. The truck seems to want to run at around 1800 rpm which in direct high is low 60's mph and in 13 wants to run around 70mph. The issue is that it dogs down easily. If we are cruising along in 13 at close to 70 with 78K load, hit a gentle hill and it starts dropping RPM. Not enough guts to power into it to keep up the speed. I seems to have no guts to get back other than downshifting and bringing it back. It will run 22 psi of boost when in the sweet spot. Turbo does not seem to spool up quickly when it dogs down.
I have been reading about these engines and it seems that we should start with a check of the pump pressure. If that looks ok, should I then be thinking of pulling the injectors and having them checked/balanced? Is it safe to assume that if the pressure is up above the 170 mark that we can determine if the engine has had any fuel delivery work?
Do you all see anything in this that I may be missing? Reading the Pittsburg paper leads me to believe that with that sort of boost, the truck may have been rebuilt to make 350hp. Do I understand this correctly.
I hate to ask, but what is the opinion of the dual fuel line mod?
John
Old School Engine Discussion - Small Cam Cummins Driveability
Discussion in 'Trucks [ Eighteen Wheelers ]' started by Hogleg, Dec 21, 2016.
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1800 is fine, if your Pyro is not too hot.
Assuming a 2300 RPM limit that should be a nice rpm at cruise.
Availible power to the drives are not going to be that much after taking away all the loading. (Belts, shaft, transmission etc.) It will slow a bit on upgrades. Try using a run at the hill and momentum over it. Im not a turbo man with the boosts and all. Anything over 15 has to be good.
I don't have too much experience with that particular engine. Mine lies in the slightly newer big cams. I did have a Autocar in cement mixing once in a while but we did not drive it much because literally the Federal Court House was a few minutes down the road to pour the underground pillars, we racked up more time waiting at idle than actually driving a Autocar.BoxCarKidd Thanks this. -
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A 290 shouldn't have a intercooler. I drove a 77 western star with a 290 and a 9 spd back when l first started trucking in the late 80's. 1800-2000 rpm was a common cruising rpm for those engines. We would gross out at 92,000lbs so they will pull the loads. But there were good reasons why guys loved 425 CATS and 350/400 Macks at the time. I would've killed for a 13 spd back then! Lol
BoxCarKidd and fargonaz Thank this. -
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The only way to know what you got is put it on a dyno.
Then you can make decisions from what you see. -
put a n14 intake and turbo on it with a air to air
BoxCarKidd Thanks this. -
I've had a couple of small cam 350's both with 5&4's-one with 4.63's and one with 5.29's. I usually ran 1850 to 2150 RPM except before a split I might take it up to 2250 plus. I always kept a close eye on the stack temperature as it would jump up pretty quick. Like the OP I tried to give it as much air as I could but that really didn't help all that much. I pulled lowboy with them hauling my own equipment usually. 5.29's with a double over would give me 62-65 mph
fargonaz Thanks this. -
Does it have an aftercooler? Those engines like higher RPM then most people are used to today, some were factory set at 2450. Many also have a fairly narrow RPM band they like to operate in. Go through a low power trouble shooting list, you can surly find one for it on line. It is just a good idea to make sure you do not have some other problem before trying to jack HP.
If it has a tag on the fuel pump what is the CPL # ? Are the seals still on it? Surly not! Just curious.
Getting rid of the log exhaust manifold plus adding a Holset turbo were a good upgrade.
Big problem is you have no idea what you have and if it was assembled correctly. As an example it the cam is out of time 1 or 2 degrees it could have a dead spot no matter what else you do.
I cannot answer all those questions but the best way to test, flow, check and clean those injectors is recons. Unless you have good buddies at a good pump shop the price difference is not much. Check AFC, Throttle lever brake over and fuel pressure under load.
If it has good power and mileage, that was about 5-6, maybe just do upgrades when regular repairs need to be done.AModelCat, Diesel Dave and Hogleg Thank this. -
It's a 39 year old Motor in a 43 year old Truck. That's the way they were back then. With approx 900 foot pound of Torque as apposed to 16-1800 foot pound Today..
If you want to keep up with the modern trucks Go buy a Modern truck..
Just relax & enjoy it for what It is..
Just My 2 cents worth..Dale thompson, 59MackB61, Hammer166 and 11 others Thank this.
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