OIL leak at water pump.

Oil can track in funny paths. Could be coming from somewhere else. Try to give it a good steam clean and see if you can find the source.

 

Like the other poster stated, Steam it real good and then get some tracer dye. Most motor shops will have it.
Then run the engine and look and see where the dye ends at and back trace it.
Good luck and hope nothing major

 

Dye is your best bet. The front of the head gasket has the oil feed & return in it, the front cover itself can leak (or be cracked). The front of the valve cover can leak and run down the front of the head. It's very hard to see between the front cover and the head, so dye or a bore scope is usually needed.

I had an FLD120 once that was leaking out if the diamond seal on the left side, but was running between the head and front cover and leaking more on the right side behind the water pump.

 

If you are sure that it's where the pump bolts on and the seal is good, then I'd say that you have a problem with the cover, it could be cracked. I have seen them crack between the water pump hole and mounting bolt hole. They should have looked really close at that when they found that the seal looked fine though. Unfortunately, I'd say that the water pump needs to come back off to see what's going on.

A slim chance, but worth a shot, the oil could be coming through the bolt hole. You could try taking out the bolt, clean the hole good with brake cleaner and blow it dry and try putting some RTV on the bolt. That may work, but it may not. Normally, there should be no oil in the water pump bolt holes, but if you have a crack in there, it's possible. I've seen 1 crack on the top inner bolt hole because someone pull a bolt in that was too long and forced it tight. It had a similar leak to what you describe, but more from the top inside of the water pump. I put some silicone on the correct length bolt and it's been going for almost a year now without leaks.

 

I have seen many pans crack, usually around the metal inserts for the plugs. The bolts/isolators are sold as a unit, you need 10. I'd get a pan gasket and bolts, it's not a hard job. When you pull it, you can clean it up and check for cracks. Most dealers stock oil pans (aourd here anyway), if not, they can usually get them quickly.

If it's not leaking too bad, I'd wait until next oil change.