Nylon or BRass S-cam bushings

Discussion in 'Heavy Duty Diesel Truck Mechanics Forum' started by Don379, Jan 7, 2021.

  1. Don379

    Don379 Heavy Load Member

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    2002 peterbilt 379 local driving dump truck. Sever duty.
    Im ordering parts to replace all my rear S-cams and all the bushings.
    Peterbilt trying to sell me meritor nylon cam bushings and said thats all they had and are better than the brass. I find that hard to believe. especially on a heavy local truck. I replaced the outer bushings last rear when i replaced all my slack adjusters and brake chambers. I just noticed the other day that all those cam bushings i install last time that were nylon are all shot. Yes i know i need to replace the cams and the inner bushings. for that, im gonna pull the hubs and do it the right way. The originals were brass fyi. Also, Im being sold meritor s-cams, is there any other that you guys recommend. They are about 85 bucks a piece from peterbilt
     
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  3. Goodysnap

    Goodysnap Road Train Member

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    I think you answered your own question. Search out a kit with the Brass, even if they are aftermarket. It makes no sense that nylon would last longer, IMO.

    Use quality grease and often and they will last a long time.
     
  4. Don379

    Don379 Heavy Load Member

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    i was just going off of instinct and i needed reassurance. The nylon kit part number is meritor 8042. Do you have a brass cross reference number
     
  5. Don379

    Don379 Heavy Load Member

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    is it 8042sb?
     
  6. lester

    lester Midwest's #1 Feed Hauler

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    The factory nylon bushings in my pete went all of a million hard stop and go miles. And I replaced with the same. Grease is your friend. Weekly or bi-weekly at most.

    And you don't need to pull the hubs off the get the tunes off. Just unbilt the tube from the spider. Especially if you are replacing the tube anyway
     
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  7. lester

    lester Midwest's #1 Feed Hauler

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    Theres still places wood bushings are used over plastic or metal. I know some combines do..
     
  8. Don379

    Don379 Heavy Load Member

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    i tried to pull the cams when i replaced the slack adjusters. i even pulled the cam tubes to get all the wiggle room. dam things werent even close to clearing the hubs. Are you sure buddy?
    Your input and help is much appreciated. When i tackle this, ill try again before i go pulling all the hubs
     
  9. lester

    lester Midwest's #1 Feed Hauler

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    Yeah I've done it with all mine. Pull the brake can off, pull the slack adjuster, remove the 4 bolts holding the tube to the spider, pull the cam shaft out. Take the tube to the bench and R and R bushings . Could be if you have different axles yours won't work that way I suppose. Have to wiggle and twist mine just a touch to pull the shaft out but not bad
     
  10. Don379

    Don379 Heavy Load Member

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    lester ill let you know how i make out when i start doing them. ill have some hub seals standing by anyhow
     
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