New VNL (2023) Aux Switch wiring?

Discussion in 'Volvo Forum' started by simonsocm, Mar 31, 2022.

  1. simonsocm

    simonsocm Light Load Member

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    Well I did some more searching and found there are connectors behind the dash that are supposedly for the 3 aux switches. They're located behind the switch panel to the right of the parking brake valves.

    I couldn't find them so I'm just gonna cut the output wire, add a single wire Deutsch connector, run a new wire to the round barrel connector below the airlines on the firewall and out and back to the backup lights I'll add.

    I'll post some pics later on what I found.
     
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  3. simonsocm

    simonsocm Light Load Member

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    So if you want to use the aux switch and not use the connector that I could not find, use a multimeter to determine which wire is the always on 12v+ wire and which wire is the switched 12v+ wire on the back of the switch. The gray wire is ground, my switched wire was the white and orange striped fatter wire near the top of the switch.

    I pulled out the switch panel and cut the switched wire around 6-8 inches back from the switch and added in a deutsch connector for easily reinstalling it back to factory. You can get all sorts of connectors from NAPA, I'd suggest using Delphi/Aptiv Metri-Pack connectors personally since they do not need to use specialized crimpers but you can use Deutsch if you use the open style terminals rather than the formed style.

    As for running the wire through the firewall you have two options. Right below the plethora of wires coming from a large electrical connector above the airlines going into the cab on the firewall is a round connector made by either Deutsch or Delphi/Aptiv. You can pull out the weatherproof plugs and use a number 16 set of terminals to add your own wires to the male and female side of the connector if the amperage is under 13? amps, if over that you can use the one remaining spot for a number 12 set of terminals, I think they handle up to 25-30 amps continuous. (This route you need Deutsch formed terminals and a crimper for Deutsch formed terminals.)

    Second option is to fit a pick through one of the little rubber plugs the airline bulkhead fittings go through and force a wire through. This is what I did.

    From there I would add a connector and zip tie it to the main harness. One wire from where you just brought it out and one wire to the ground panel right behind the main harness and fusebox on the firewall.




    Here's the Delphi/Aptiv connector on the firewall, you can search for the correct terminals from this page, they should be related to this part.
    Aptiv 15544896 HES Circular Connector | Waytek Wire
     
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  4. Jacoooooooo

    Jacoooooooo Heavy Load Member

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    Would these be the connectors everyone was looking for? If so how do I wire into this? The only open spot is where the ground is on the other end…
     

    Attached Files:

  5. KB3MMX

    KB3MMX Road Train Member

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    The auxiliary power wires are located on the firewall on the driver's side tied to the main harness they should have tags on them that are labeled AUX-1 and aux2 etc.. All you have to do is plug in the switch with the sub harness in the dash and they will be active
     
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  6. Jacoooooooo

    Jacoooooooo Heavy Load Member

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    I mean they are plugged and active, just no accessory connected, so I was asking where to splice the hot wire from the accessory.
     
  7. simonsocm

    simonsocm Light Load Member

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    Yup, where behind the dash did you find them?
     
  8. KB3MMX

    KB3MMX Road Train Member

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    You can order the factory pigtails from volvo that plug directly into your stubbed Aux power wire... It has a dummy plug in the end that's a single pin weatherpack type connector
     
  9. Jacoooooooo

    Jacoooooooo Heavy Load Member

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    Left of the fusebox, directly behind suspension dump / fifth where switches etc.
     
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  10. simonsocm

    simonsocm Light Load Member

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    Gotcha, mine aren't back there for some reason. Hence why I just cut the wiring.
     
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  11. Jacoooooooo

    Jacoooooooo Heavy Load Member

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    Thanks, I ended up just splicing to the wire that was getting power with the switch in on position only.

    i actually ended up doing the same thing.
     
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