Been using straps since the beginning. I feel the need to carry load bars and straps. Reason being some times I can't get to a point to place the strap.
My issue is not knowing which are quality and what to avoid. At ts I see some that are the usual long ones. And some that appear collapsed and are maybe 50 inches when not extended.
So what do I look for?
Need guidance on load bars
Discussion in 'Experienced Truckers' Advice' started by BlackThought, May 5, 2018.
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Prime tells us to only use the ratchet style, supposedly they are the most trustworthy. I'd be careful using them on a dryvan, you can damage a wall with those.
All of mine are the long black bar you just extend by hand and lock the handle in place, because that's what I've scavenged recently. I've never had a load lock fail on me in four years, so I don't worry too much about what the company recommends. On these you do have to watch out when they get old, the little metal nub can break off that keeps the handle locked.
If you are using two load locks across the same plane, check the first one after you install the second. Sometimes the wall flex will loosen it some. -
Always install bottom first then second which is on top or wear hard heat. Never install vertically. Roof is just skin
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Hydraulic load bars are the bee’s knees, but they don’t last all that well. The lever style work pretty good. Always seems like they’re too tight ore loose though. Ratchet ones suck, or at least the ones I used did.
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Load bars are those that have a rated weight for both support and for securment, usually 2000lbs.
These go into the e-track that is mounted on the trailer walls.
Load locks have have no rating and are ratchet style or hydraulic and can go anywhere.
I've seen drivers use load locks to secure loads that moved on them and still made a mess in the trailer becuase they are not designed to hold loads that are heavy.Chinatown Thanks this. -
Do you have a load lock rack on the back of the cab? If not, do you have a way to store them, other then inside a trailer?
If you have e-tracks, straps is the best way to go. Sometimes you may need to work with the loader to attach an end before the final pallets are put in if getting a good "pull cinch" is criticalTriple C Thanks this. -
If you do use long load locks, I recommend you remove them from the trailer and not rely on the fork lift operator to not run over them or bend the feet pads if they're moved over to the side. They are notorious for leaving them on the side on the floor as they load, and you will end up with severely bent feet pads sooner rather than later.
Unless they specifically request me leave them in the trailer for them to apply, I back up close, remove them off to the ground, back in, then when loaded, pull up and put them in myself.
But we do lots of freezer docks where we never open swing doors. They open from inside, load, close, and seal and we can only hope they were not omitted or tore up.Last edited: May 6, 2018
snowwy and Buster Churry Thank this. -
The load bars sold at truck stops are the cheapest ones and break easily. Shop around for better quality.
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load locks don't work in a dry van unless the are the kind that hook in the e tracks and they are not any better than a strap
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Load lock with a strap nearby will be pretty solid ..
91B20H8 Thanks this.
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