N14 Spun Rod Bearing

Hey everyone. After reading some of the comments in here about bearing replacement, thought I would add my two cents. I have a N14 525 with 900,000 miles on it. It is used for heavy haul. Right before Christmas the engine seized on the driver. I did not have time to lowboy it home until end of last week. I did some reading on the forums, and many post said the number 5 bearing is the first to go. I don't remember why, maybe someone can remind me. Anyhow, I went and pulled the pan, and looked at the road bearing caps. Sure enough number 5 cap was discolored. Pulled the cap, and the bearing was one of the worst I have ever seen in 30 years., Engine freed up, and knew I had a head ache on my hands. Now I have to pull the whole engine to replace the crank, a rod and a week of busting my ### to rebuild the engine. I guess the nice part is knowledge that I have an engine that will go another 900,000 miles, but what a chore. Also a new clutch being I am right there.

So for those of you who preach ,that you should not need to roll bearings before an inframe, I strongly disagree.I pulled the rest of the caps and they showed more wear than I like to see. This engine had never been gone into before. I am now planning on rolling bearings in my other 460 N14 soon as this is done, Heads, counterbores, liners , pistons etc can all be done in the truck. Roll a rod bearing and out comes the engine. Word of warning when guys here tell you not to worry about rolling bearings at 500k, I am going back to old school and just plan on doing them at 600K. The 225.00 and day it takes is cheap insurance. I just got a quote on my parts and it came in at 4300.00. For the guy who is not mechanically inclined, this would be a 20k repair in a shop with the oil pump and heads etc. I will reuse my heads as they tested good, as well as my injectors. I pulled the piston nozzles, and all were good. Time for some whiskey and long nights. When I replace a crank I check the rod end play, and all the measurements on the crank along with plasti-gauge, so will take a whole night just to get the #### thing in, and measured. Enough ranting, you all have been warned !

 

Cory,
Thanks for the info. I checked my block, and had no fretting. Main journals looked perfect. I plasti-gauge everything just to be safe. Worth the extra couple hours, along with all of my rod and end play measurements. I am also replacing number 5 and 6 connecting rods.Reconditioned crankshaft was 1600.00., so your 2000.00 in a shop is right on the money. I went right to number 5 first after reading that 5 and 6 are known to starve the rods for oil. I learned my lesson the hard way. Oil samples are good, but i am rolling bearings in all of my trucks. Like I said, everything else is cake compared to pulling the engine. Bearing kits are only about 250.00, and a days worth of labor. Will try to get some pictures of the build up. What pisses me off most is I should of known better being I bought this truck used. #### thing ran so well with no blow by I just left it alone. I paid the price for being lazy.