Hello,
I just bought a double hopper bottom dump trailer. Unfortunately the trailer wasn’t wired up at all. Neither clam gates are hooked up properly. When I picked up the trailer my running lights would cause the front claim to open…. So had to disconnect what wiring it had.
Looking for some help with getting this trailer wired up but can’t really find anything online. The prior owner of my truck used to pull a bottom dump so my truck already has a PTO but this trailer doesn’t have any type of a PTO hook up. Just a couple of loose wires coming out of the actuator.
Both claims have an actuator with (Versa) printed on them. Is there some type of kit to simplify hooking these up?
Any advice or pointing in the right direction would be greatly appreciated.![]()
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Looking for Help Wiring Bottom Dump Controls
Discussion in 'Heavy Duty Diesel Truck Mechanics Forum' started by OldRed98, Nov 20, 2017.
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SAR Thanks this. -
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Thinking that a couple of toggle switches on the dash might be best since I have 2 gates to control.
Do the Versa valves just have a hot and neutral? -
there are a couple different styles. one you need a hot charge wire, a ground and then a open hot and a close hot. when the circuit collapses on the charge wire on it goes into full close.
then there is the style that looks more like what you have where its basicly a spool valve that detentes to closed. basicly you charge the solinoid it should move the spool valve and gates should open collapse the circuit and they should close.
trailer i have has a valve that looks very similar but it has manual hand valve on it as well. you can ground to chassis and then run a hot to the solenoid.
i would wire your switches so you have a 3rd kill switch. power feed into one switch wire in series to your actually dump switches. your dump switch for each gate can be wired in parallel after the switch in series from your power source what this will do is make it so two switches have to be thrown for the gate to open. so if you accidentally bump one switch rolling down the road you don't drop your load on the highway. -
Thanks for the help Ezrider! Below is what I've came up with so far. Let me know if you think I should change anything. I'm going to have 4 switches (2 for each clam gate). Want to make sure I have extra protection so I don't lose a load on the road.
The silver thing in the picture is a quick disconnect that I found at the auto parts store.
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looks like you are on the right track. your have to excuse my crude ms paint drawing here but here is a 3 switch and 4 switch circuit and in red is a optional led light to remind you to shut your road switch off after you close your gates. i did this on my first truck i didn't do it on my current truck, and i kinda wish i had, i every time i use my belly dump i remember id like to ad one then i park the belly dump and forget about it.
i use the round 6 pin automotive trailer light connector for my belly dump. looks like what you have there, i run some controls on other trailers threw the same plug otherwise a 4 pin is fine for a belly dump as well. i only have 1 gate and i also have a ground wire that runs threw the plug as well that grounds right next to the valve. witch is probably completely unnecessary as your trailer lights run a ground wire to chassis as well. plus a a poor ground threw the 5th wheel. -
another thing is sometimes the valves can get a little sticky esp in cold weather it does not look like you have oilier installed on the line feeding from the tank to the valve. it would not be a bad idea to add one. otherwise your need to pull the air supply line and spray some wd40 or similar in it from time to time. a little oil is good for the seals in your gate cyl's as well.
the style valves you have seem to me to be far less finicky than the style on the newer trailers though. -
Thanks for the tips Ezrider! Really appreciate the info on an oilier too. I wouldn't have ever known.
This is my first bottom dump trailer. I found a good deal through an auction up your way in Minot ND. Unfortunately, when I got up there last week the trailer had tons of air leaks, rotten tires, and the brakes were backed off.
Spent a few days to get it fixed.
This is an old trailer but doesn't look likes its had much use. The down side was I had to get new tires, new brake chambers, and all new air lines... But now its like new.
I know that front clam gate works at least. -
if your talking about the gratech auction, all there truck stuff was pretty well run threw the ringer. there heavy haulers were pretty good and went cheap too but all there belly dumps and esp the side dumps there are only a couple of them that were worth much more than scrap.
SAR Thanks this. -
Yep it was the gratech auction.
Thats the problem with Auctions... People tend to dump their broken used up equipment there.
The auction didn't list any pictures of the rotten tires... I was so mad. Planned to hitch up and hit the road back to Montana that night. But when I showed up the loader told me the trailer didn't have brakes.
At least the frame and everything else on this trailer is solid. I'm into it a little more than I had hoped (11K) but I think it will be fine. All new tires now and air lines. Brakes are almost new too.Last edited: Nov 22, 2017
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yup nov 7th richie brothers auction was the gratech retirement auction. Lot # 465
1972 FRUEHAUF 38 Ft T/A Bottom Dump Trailer
Details: spring susp, clam gate. More details
MINOT, ND
Tuesday Nov 7, 2017
Sold for:USD
i have contracted for them a lot over the years i had never seen that trailer. i would guess its been sitting for a very long time. probably a good thing they have not really maintained there truck fleet very well for the last several years.
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