late model 2012 Kenworth T700 driver's side door picking up air...

Check the weather stripping around the door. Compare it to the passenger door.

 

lets see another happy Trans Am Leasee
I found on windy days sometimes the door leaked air
sometimes it was ok

it can be adjusted but as you say cost money
if it leaks air enough to whistle lower the window an inch will stop that

 

Two months ago you were seeking advice on how to pass the backing portion on a cdl test. Today you mention a maintenance fund. I sure hope that is a walk away lease and you two are smart enough to walk away before you are facing financial ruin. My heart wishes you the best of luck and success, the part of me grounded in reality knows you have practically no chance. The deck is stacked and the dealer cheats.

 

The T700 is really just a glorified T2000, I have had over 20 of them over the years, It should take less than a hour to fix it if he has any mechanical ability at all.

The problem is the door is fiberglass and does have some give to it, the factory never seems to be able to align them properly, and dealers are not any better.

If they haven't changed anything he will need a Phillips and Flat screwdriver and a couple of TORX bit, I am sorry but don't remember the size.

First raise the hood full open, there will be a "collar" made of fiberglass(plastic) that starts at the front of the cowl area and runs vertical down to where it meets the tire, it then takes a 90 degree turn and goes along the bottom of the cab to the back of the door opening.

Remove all of the screws holding that in place and carefully remove that cover from the side of the cab, this will expose all of your adjustment screws for your door hinges.

You can now adjust the door in an infinite amount of ways, in, out, tilt, angle, you also have a big TORX screw on the cab upright where you door clasps the lock post, loosen that up and shove it all the way in, (DO NOT TAKE IT OFF!).

Adjust your door so you get a nice even squish around the whole seal, the top of the door frame being the most important, usually you don't have to move them a lot. Make sure the door sits square in the cab opening and flush or just slightly "in".

THEN when you are happy with the way the door shuts and seals, adjust your big TORX door post so that the door has a good solid feel when you close it. The door post should NOT lift the door up or down, that adjustment is solely in your hinges, that post is ONLY a depth adjustment for the back of the door.

You do NOT have to slam the door if it is adjusted properly, you should be able to push it closed with two fingers. Problem is most people really don't know how to close a door, as dumb as that sounds.

Because that is such a large cab it does/should have two air flap releases at the back of the cab, they are there so that when people slam that door the air inside the cab has somewhere to go, in all honesty, you should just crack your window and inch or two and your door will close much easier.

But most drivers would just rather just sit there and slam the #### out of the door, that is how you get broken hinges.

Sorry to rant, but it is a pet peeve of mine, I have pulled more than one of my drivers out of the cab of a new truck for sitting there slamming the door.

Hope this helps,

Stan

 

You will get a bit of wind noise when cracking the window (depending on which way the wind is blowing and the velocity) while driving, BUT, you might not get the whistle/roar that you get with the door pulling away from the seal.

 

Not being able to hear your passenger talking could possible go in the plus column.