Installing oil cooling nozzles and torque specs DDEC 4 series 60 Detroit

Discussion in 'Heavy Duty Diesel Truck Mechanics Forum' started by caribou8820, May 23, 2020.

  1. caribou8820

    caribou8820 Bobtail Member

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    Got a project to try to get done sometime this weekend. Have a set of piston cooling nozzles that I am installing, along with a new oil pan gasket.
    Got the parts all set, but needed the torque specs for the oil pan bolts. Also wondering if there is any torque spec for the nozzle bolts? My mechanic was getting the info for me, but it got lost somewhere and he's out for the weekend. Also have a service manual ordered for the engine, but that hasn't showed up yet.
    Is there any trick to installing the oil pan gasket, my service guy was talking about using RTV silicon in the front and back in a couple areas.
    If all else fails have a few free days as I've been running pretty hard this past month. So if it doesn't get done until Wed may be OK.
    Thanks in advance for any advice and have a great weekend.
    Also the reason I'm putting these in is that the engine is not the premium build, so didn't originally come with them; but was recently turned up to 550 HP and 1850 torque. The guy I bought the truck from did this; it seems to be a pretty decent tune as it runs great and pulls good; but I don't want to take any chances on damaging the engine. I've been driving it fairly conservatively, keeping the exhaust temps below 900 for the most part. At some point I'd like to get Full Tilt manifold and replace the turbo to help with temps; but that is in the future.
     
    Rideandrepair Thanks this.
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  3. Rideandrepair

    Rideandrepair Road Train Member

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    A dab of silicone, on the block seams near each corner, where the front and rear covers meet,is what’s suggested. New rubber grommets, for the bolts, and steel sleeves, if they’re mushroomed at all,from over torquing, then snug it up tight.The pan bolts will bottom out on their own. They’re known for leaking, even when everything’s done correctly. I had to run silicone around the whole pan,as a last resort to get the gasket sealed up to the fiber/plastic pan. I’ll look for the torques.
     
    lwlevens Thanks this.
  4. Rideandrepair

    Rideandrepair Road Train Member

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    All I could find were series 55 torque specs. Nozzles 37ft.lbs, and oil pan, 22-28 ft lbs.
     
    lwlevens Thanks this.
  5. Rideandrepair

    Rideandrepair Road Train Member

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    As long as you’re block is built after may 98, it should already be drilled for nozzles, and capped off, if built before May 98, it probably isn’t drilled for nozzles, and can’t be added.
     
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  6. caribou8820

    caribou8820 Bobtail Member

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    The truck is a 99. Does it say on the engine when built?
     
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  7. Rideandrepair

    Rideandrepair Road Train Member

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    It’s probably a 98, it should say manufacture date on the valve cover tag. A more accurate way is to check serial #, for before and after purposes. I can try to find the #s, if your #s higher, good to go.
     
  8. Rideandrepair

    Rideandrepair Road Train Member

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    The Guy that could tell you is @benjamin260_6 . If he’s still around here.
     
  9. benjamin260_6

    benjamin260_6 Medium Load Member

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    I'd need the serial number
     
  10. caribou8820

    caribou8820 Bobtail Member

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    Here are the numbers I came up with.

    Unit # 06R0440851
    S.O. 527139
    Model 6067TK60

    There is one sticker hidden behind the air filter mount that I can't read. Hopefully this is the info you need. Thanks
     
  11. caribou8820

    caribou8820 Bobtail Member

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    Well I got the oil pan off and it is drilled, has the plugs in. So think I'll wait until Monday to work on it. Looks like will have to get the crank in the right position for each cylinder to reach up there. Anything else I should look for when I'm under there?
     
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