Installing battery cut off switch

The only problem with cutting everything off is that many of the electronics now have heaters on the circuit boards, which may be what is helping to drain your batteries. Shutting everything off could let something freeze, condensate, or some other problem that they were trying to avoid by installing those heaters. It might also void any warranty.

You might want to be certain your batteries are up to spec, and the best way to be sure is to test each one individually. testing them as a group might give you results that they look OK, but one bad one will drag down the others as they sit.

 

Are you positive the batteries arnt freezing?

 

Get new batteries problem solved

 

if it's $2000 for some one to come out and get you started you are a perfect candidate for one of those maxwell start modules

something to look into

 

One thing that is very easy to check for when the batteries drain down is the alternator, after you shut the truck down take a wrench and put it across the pulley if it is attracted the internal regulator is not shutting down. You want to find the parasitic drain,anyway.
Ground isolation switches are not hard to install, you need to find a practical area to mount them preferably out of trie spray, and have some #2 battery cable and solder up some new cables. Two switches work the best.
Just a thought!

 

$2000 ? Ill come get it started for you. Ive got 4 batteries and on my way. lol

 

Some trucks defend themselves against drains using a 3 and one system where one battery is controlled by computer and isolated from the other three so that no matter what happens there theoretically is one big battery able to keep a charge.

I worry that in today's era of Computer Trucks far in excess of it's capability to be almost "Alive" for lack of a good word comparison they need those batteries to feed on while sleeping with everything off.

If you are trying to install one or two kill switches big enough to make sure nothing is being drawn on those batteries, I have a feeling you are not fixing the actual root cause of your power loss. Somewhere there is power flowing when and where it should not be.

That leads me to the fuse stack. small amp fuses all the way up to god knows how many amps, 30? 50? etc.

Pull a fuse. Put a tester across the two slots it came out of. If you see power flowing then that is probably your problem and it's affected device such as the radio fuse or the cigerette lighter fuse etc. I don't know exactly remember how to set up a multimeter to read power flowing when it should have ZERO power flowing. It's best left to someone else who remembers.

 

That post was 3 years ago, I think he may have found someone else.