Every brake on this truck and trailer are within spec, all have been adjusted and inspected by a mechanic with much experience new front drums and shoes, drives are next. Yet the thing feel like no stopping power ever. Like grease on shoes???? Slamming them empty or loaded not much difference. I keep hearing auto slack adjusters clicking until they stop?
The compressor is believed to be on its last leg, and takes a bit to long to build up, but does stay at 120psi until hard braking than goes out real quick like after about a few good stabs, also oil vapor is collecting in the primary air tanks. This is the worst truck brakes I've ever experienced.
How do you know drum brakes are working perfectly?
Discussion in 'Ask An Owner Operator' started by Oldironfan, Feb 2, 2018.
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The linings may have glazed over from too much hard use and the heat it generates.
BoxCarKidd, Hurst, ladr and 1 other person Thank this. -
Honestly the best brakes I've ever drove on a tractor, were probably illegal. The drums and pads had a ripple pattern on all drives, lengthwise like a ribbed belt. They were amazing stopping power. And had no fade, I'm sure they were over 3 years old because that's how long I drove it OTR from Wisconsin to the Northwest mostly. But they were about min limits last time I drove it. I've never drove disk brake truck.
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Nothing that gets onto a big truck is "Illegal"
Oil in the tanks? That tells me that either the tanks are never drained each night (No air dryer?) or the oil etc has compromised the rubber dividing the Spring and the Service air chambers of your brakes.
I don't know about the rest of it without seeing everything first hand. There is a range of possibilities.aussiejosh and Oldironfan Thank this. -
It is winter time here.
I noticed this in the winter, for me it was just the wrong kind of grease being used in the Slacks and s-cams. Too heavy grease caused a delay in the reaction Time, caused by a slow rotation of the s cam.Oldironfan and x1Heavy Thank this. -
A shiny inside of the drum ( can be seen once those guards fall off) says it's working.
Oldironfan, x1Heavy and Feedman Thank this. -
Warped drums. There's no way to see it without putting them on a machine to turn them. Which I don't think exists for truck drums.
I had a truck that took 60 plus pounds and still sucked. Then it got new brakes and drums. Stopped on a dime afterwards. With only 15 pounds.
I had a 76 Plymouth duster that was the same way. Brake pedal felt like hitting a brick wall. Machined all 4 drums. Worked like a champ.
Mechanics talk valves and replace but problem never gets fixed. But new drums always does the trick. In every truck I've gotten new drums with.Last edited: Feb 2, 2018
Oldironfan and x1Heavy Thank this. -
Oil is messing up your valves If it's spewing oil into air lines.. IN cold weather they can gum up so bad from oil they freeze and trailer won't air up properly
Oldironfan, x1Heavy and uncleal13 Thank this. -
You can likely eyeball them and clearly see if they are warped that badly. Jack a wheel up. Set something close to the drum, spin and watch the warps.
Oldironfan and x1Heavy Thank this. -
Only way to see it is on a machine. Grinding the surface down till it's perfectly round. Or flat if rotor.
Drums and rotors warp. That's just normal. Nothing anyone can do. It's caused from uneven heating and cooling. The thinner they get. The worse the warp. And drums and rotors do get thinner from every day use. Just like brakes get thinner.
Course. Your probably shaking your head and rolling your eyes. But hey. I used to do brake work for a living before changing to steering wheel holder.User666, BoxCarKidd, ladr and 2 others Thank this.
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