How Do I Change Oil On Detroit 60 12.7?

Discussion in 'Trucks [ Eighteen Wheelers ]' started by musicmann2u, May 11, 2010.

  1. musicmann2u

    musicmann2u Bobtail Member

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    Mar 11, 2010
    Buffalo, New York
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    Hello Drivers: I recently bought a truck with a Detroit 60 12.7. It Came with
    NO! Paperwork so I really have no way of knowing when the oil was last changed. I have no problem getting down and doing it myself but, I don't understand the drain setup. I mean there is a Allen type plug on the right side of the oil pan, I expected to see a drain bolt plug. I'm not sure this is the correct method for this engine. I heard that some oil and lube shop's use a siphon type tool to vacuum the old oil out. Can any of you guys that do your own oil changes explain it to me? I have yet to even find the oil capacity for this engine as I received no owners manual:biggrin_25513:
    Your input is greatly appreciated.

    Thanks.:Driver:
     
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  3. Saddle Tramp

    Saddle Tramp Medium Load Member

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    Jul 13, 2009
    laurel, nebraska
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    :biggrin_25514:I talked to my friend who owns a truck shop & he said that the allen plug on the side of the oil pan is where you drain the oil. It takes 10 gallions to fill. Just remember to make sure you have enough to fill the oil filter.:biggrin_25514:
     
  4. Brickman

    Brickman Trucker Forum STAFF Staff Member

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    Pela Oil Extractor
     
  5. Ramblin' Redneck

    Ramblin' Redneck Medium Load Member

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    Apr 18, 2010
    So.IL
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    Changing the oil in a truck is no different than changing the oil in a car...it's just on a bigger scale. Make sure you have a drain pan that can hold the oil that will drain out...usually going to be 8-10 gallons.

    Remove drain plug and drain the oil.

    Replace drain plug.

    Remove the old oil filters.

    Fill the new oil filters with clean oil and lube the gasket with oil.

    Install new oil filters.

    Add oil to crank case to "full" line on dipstick.

    Start the truck. Watch the oil pressure gauge to make sure it shows pressure within a few seconds.

    Get out of the truck with the engine running and check for leaks.

    Shut truck off, check dipstick and add a little more oil if needed.



    Your oil is changed. Now is a good time to change the fuel filters, too...and check/replace the air cleaner....and grease the chassis....and check the brakes for adjustment & wear...put a tire gauge on the tires & check pressure....check the u-bolts holding the axles to the suspension to make sure they haven't worked loose....check the suspension....check all lights to make sure they all are working....and any other "minor" thing you may discover while you are crawling around under the truck.

    Basically, if you service your truck, you should take the opportunity when you are under the truck getting dirty anyway to look extra close at everything.
     
    Mcast3092, 2fuzy, Hanadarko and 3 others Thank this.
  6. musicmann2u

    musicmann2u Bobtail Member

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    Mar 11, 2010
    Buffalo, New York
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    My thanks to all of you who have taken the time to respond to this post.:biggrin_25514:
    Especially Ramblin Redneck for all the extras. I feel pretty comfortable with all those tasks so I'll be sure to address them. I'm still trying to figure out the Hex Socket size for the drain bolt, I believe it's either 9/16 0r 5/8 I'm thinking 5/8. If anyone can confirm this It would save me a trip to Sears cause I think That's one I don't have.:biggrin_2556:

    Happiness is a solid running truck and a warm gun.:biggrin_25525:
     
  7. JohnP3

    JohnP3 Road Train Member

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    Feb 21, 2010
    Rock Creek B.C. Canada
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    Do not take out the plug on the side of the pan, under no circumstances period. You can damage the pan. The drain plug is in the bottom of the pan it is a 1/2 inch square and is put back in torqued to 43 lbs. The oil filter punch a hole in the bottom of both filters and let them drain then remove them. The threaded tube the filter goes on be sure it is tight in the filter head. if it is not then you want to remove it, clean it and the housing, put on thread locker and screw it back in. Clean off the magnet on the drain plug. You can put a little Teflon if you want to. Fill the filters and clean off the mount surface lube the seal and put them on with a strap wrench and a 1/2 inch ratchet not a long one.
     
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  8. Ramblin' Redneck

    Ramblin' Redneck Medium Load Member

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    Apr 18, 2010
    So.IL
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    I would recommend AGAINST punching a hole in the old filter to drain before removal...for the simple reason that if you cannot get the filter off, you are screwed. This is the first time he's changing the oil. He doesn't know how long those filters have been on there, how tight they were torqued, whether the gasket was lubed, or anything else that would contribute to a filter being stubborn. At least if the old filter is still intact, if he can't get it off, he can still put the oil back in it and take it somewhere for help.

    I've broken filter wrenches before...it happens...and if you don't have a "Plan B" when it happens, you're up a creek.
     
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  9. Iceman_biker

    Iceman_biker Light Load Member

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    Apr 30, 2010
    Arcadia LA
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    I would recommend using Rotella Synthetic, lasts longer between changes and your engine will live longer. :biggrin_25525:
     
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  10. JohnP3

    JohnP3 Road Train Member

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    Rock Creek B.C. Canada
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    If you turn the wheel hard to the left you can loosen off the filter first then punch it. Cat filters are the ones that get ignorant tight. If you are going to be changing your own oil buy a good strap wrench, snap on sells the best one it has a 2 inch wide belt and is usable on any size filter. Just a thought!
     
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  11. heavyhaulerss

    heavyhaulerss Road Train Member

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    AL/TN BORDER
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    any differnece between rotella & delvac? I buy mine at wally world $8.50 a gallon, regular oil. I get witch ever is cheaper. one week delvac is .50 cheaper the next week vise versa. just had a inframe done & after break in going to try synthetic.
     
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