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Tried out one of these mini puller/testers that lights up, but the fuse box is overhead, and I have to reach at an angle, then other size fuses are getting in the way.
What would you use in that case?
Fuse Testing
Discussion in 'Trucks [ Eighteen Wheelers ]' started by camionneur, Mar 6, 2016.
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I usually use a multi meter. Most fuses have 2 metal tabs exposed on top. So I basically just power up the suspect circuit and check for power at each tab. Removing the fuse is not required for that test. Visual inspection of the fuse is not always accurate. (just yesterday I came across a fuse which looked perfectly ok but I was losing over 11.5 volts across it. Thinking the fusible element had a hairline crack in it.)
camionneur Thanks this. -
Going to try this one, has a 12ft lead. Says to connect clip to grounding spot or vehicle's chassis. Hmm, what exactly counts as "chassis" in the engine compartment? -
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Any bolt will do? How about the windshield wiper...
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Haha. Frame rails an stuff... find a big unpainted botl.
camionneur Thanks this. -
I don't know, got mixed results when I tried this on a few fuses. It would light up on some, but with a #10 that I tested between both of these, only the little fuse puller lit up, and I covered every millimeter with the other one (which didn't light up on several sizes, and did on others of the same size, though I doubt the duds were bad). Didn't have time to poke around more than that, but I did go back and forth with consistent results, so it doesn't seem to be that the light bulb was out of contact randomly. Might have to try a multimeter also.
Last edited: Mar 15, 2016
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Ordered an outdoor one, waterproof/shockproof, will probably drop it or drool on it trying to get both prongs in there.
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I use a Power Prob 3 for that and many other tests.
http://www.powerprobe.com/product.php?iProductID=13brian991219 and camionneur Thank this.
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