If you have one plz comment.
I've been looking at the Freightliner Classics I'm really diggin the boxy look but I don't particularly like peterbilt or Kenworths sorry to those guys out there but just not my cup of tea.
Please share with me your experience with this truck what I should look out for before buying one and what should be changed after I do buy one if I decide to go that route I really like the classic132 cause its bigger but 120 would be fine too.
Series 60 engine
10-13speed
Should i buy one with high miles with a reman engine or reman it my self after purchase. What is your take on this truck.
Also i would do some labor on my own truck when i have my own. Mostly simple stuff and the occasional hard to do stuff.
Thanks guys and happy trucking.
FREIGHTLINER CLASSIC
Discussion in 'Ask An Owner Operator' started by JR28262, Oct 31, 2018.
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Classics haven’t changed much.I have an 01 (Titled 01 actually 2000) Must have sat at factory for a while.While they were dealing with all the Repos at time?Dont Know. Easy to work on. Last Classic was 99.Both Great Trucks.Very Good Parts costs and availability.They changed Cab air ride in 02 or 03 to a much better design. Gives a lot more room between Cab and Frame. Better design. Also changed front spring hangers/ bumper bracket not a fan of that design. Similar to old WS (89 and older) design looks heavier.Its probably better though. Some have front air bag suspension I hear it’s more expensive to maintain/ repair. But rides better. Most have little no insulation. Mine has 84” bunk air and heat struggle sometimes if not kept up to par.Dashboard frames tend to break and doors need rebuilding every 4 yrs or s
k if kept up but will fall apart if slammed too much!! I just finished passenger now doing Drivers new hinge ( never been changed 18 yrs 2 ml + miles)and seals and handles inside and out. New vents from junkyard also as the frames rust out from condensation ?. Mine (285” wb) takes 8 lanes to u- turn. Worst turning radius of any Truck. Always been able to get in and out of spots, with patience almost blind sides as easy as regular backing, doesn’t like to follow Trailer very good. Takes getting used to. Made to go straight down Hwy!!! Lol.Mt Detroit 12.7 was fresh OH when I bought it 10 yrs ago @. 875 k still going @. 2.1+.I guess it depends on what you can find / price/ and who you know for Overhaul / costs. AC/Alternator brackets are plagued with breaking bolts and wallowing out holes. Have to be kept tight.Lack of legroom is a problem also.I wouldn’t hesitate to buy one with high miles if it’s been maintained. Mine has all original front end just passed DOT.I would look for one with a nice interior. Often a good indicator of overall care and maintenance.Bunk fan switch tends to get hot and over time needs new harness.Just replaced mine. Mirrors view through vents. Rolling down window of no help when backing up ( Glare)That’s a Real negative. If adjusted right able to use passenger remote fully. If not useless blindsiding.Need to keep all bushings ( torsion/ Cab/ spring hanger etc)motor mounts and air ride set right or you’ll be swaying all around. Bad enough with all good parts!! I know it’s a long post. But you asked!! Lol Good Luck
Kruse Family Farms, 6rider, gokiddogo and 5 others Thank this. -
Rideandrepair Thanks this.
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I have an 01 also. Rideandrepair is pretty much spot on. Mine has been real good to me. They have a reputation for noise and rattles inside. Cant say mine is all that bad with even 1 million on it. Still ice cold in the summer and toasty in the winter. Pretty simple trucks to work on. My biggest complaint is the doors as he mentioned. The metal channel the window glass sits in tends to spread open from rust and catches towards the top when rolling it back up but not to bad to replace. Just had mine all re bushed. I like the airliner suspension.
Last edited: Nov 1, 2018
gokiddogo, Dino soar, Rideandrepair and 1 other person Thank this. -
I have an 03 fld 120...cousin to the classic. Best thing i ever did was take apart all the panels in sleeper and used spray foam for insulation. All that was in there was a section of foam padding...not good. Now, its soooo much better. Also put rubber matting in door panels (Dynamat) and THAT takes a HUGE bite out of the noise you will normally get. There is a lot of other upgrades i did (stereo, fridge, fold down bed and table off back wall)...and motor as well. I have the series 60 ddec 4 with a 500 +15 programmed ecm, B&W 702 turbo, bully dog manifold, and Donaldson pass thru muffler. All work other than programming i did myself.
Great thing about these trucks....u can still work on them yourselfgokiddogo, kemosabi49, snowman_w900 and 2 others Thank this. -
How long?
And
Was it hard?
To remove interior panels for insulation.
How loud is it?
I bet it's obnoxious. Thats how i want it. STUPID LOUD!! -
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Removing panels is as easy as pulling them off...some of the trim is screwed on, but panels are those plastic fasteners like car door panels of old
JR28262 and Rideandrepair Thank this. -
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JR28262 Thanks this.
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