Is this something that's better left to the professionals or is this something I can tackle. Any tips or advice?
A little backround I found 2 cold leaks this passed weekend and took care of them. I suspect the cooler is leaking but will be keeping an eye on my coolant this week. The cooler looks to be the original but unsure. Current milage 638k d13
Egr cooler replacement
Discussion in 'Volvo Forum' started by Socal Xpress, Dec 28, 2015.
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It's not hard to replace, just messy
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If you have a leak IN the egr cooler than replace is only option. If you have an external leak 99.9% will not be egr cooler. Most likely oil cooler housing. Either way egr cooler has to come off. If it is just the egr cooler its simple. Parts list needed is turbo mount kit, a few extra orings. The ##### pipe clamps and gaskets are in the egr cooler kit. Make sure you tell them kit or else you won't get all the parts. The turbo mount bolts are 14mm the oil return line is either 10 or 12 older has 12mm. You will need a 24 mm and a 22 mm wrench. Take the coolant line off the top of the vgt, 14mm note copper washers. Take the coolant line off top of turbo note 2 washers there. Remove coolant line from oil cooler housing it has 2 lines attached. Note 3 washers there. Remove turbo speed sensor and vgt plugs down by oil filter base. Wiggle turbo so it comes off oil return pipe. Note purple oring. Remove turbo oil feed either 10 or 12 mm note purple oring. This can be done before removal of turbo. Set aside turbo. Remove pipe from egr cooler bother side. Note 2 black orings. Remove egr cooler elbow note green oring*, take 13 mm open end wrench loosen jam nuts and use 6mm long hex loosen clamps. Take 13 mm deep socket remove ##### pipe clamp discard. Take 17 mm socket and on bottom of cooler locate plug remove and drain remaining coolant. Take prybar and pry cooler between rear mount and cooler away from engine. Note plastic sleeve with 2 black orings*. Get new one from parts dept when you get the rest of your parts. Beware when reinstalling ##### pipe that the end that mounts to cooler has floating collar. That has to be evenly spaced at reinstall or will leak bad and squeal. Hence the name ##### pipe. You won't use everything in the turbo mount kit. The set of 3 washers you will need to get 1 extra kit has 2. You can also replace the turbo oil return oring after cooler is off. Also the copper washer on the plug remover from the egr cooler too. Use anti seize on turbo mount bolts. Do not torque on them like its your mother in law. The banjo bolt with 2 coolant lines in the oil cooler be very very careful nor to strip out the threads in the housing. Have to replace housing is you do. Use STP oil treatment on purple orings to install. Also make sure turbo oil return is all the way in use flashlight and mirror. This is probably the most simple job to do on a d13.
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If you suspect it has an internal leak remove the elbow and with a flashlight and mirror look inside. If it is wet or has large chunks of black stuff most likely leaking. This usually throws a mass flow code of some sort. Used to be 4752 fmi7 but don't see that unless truck hasn't had a software update. New codes are mass flow. Oh yeah the clamp for the elbow is a 5 mm hex
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Thanks Dave!
I had the oil cooler housing replaced last year by a shop.Keepforgettingmypassword Thanks this. -
You can try to replace the egr cooler yourself, and if you find that there is a problem to replace it by yourself, then you can find someone professional.
Keepforgettingmypassword and Matt1924 Thank this. -
Dave, My new 2016 has a cold leak that appears to be coming from the oil cooler housing cover near the back of the water pump area.
Is this something common you've seen?
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It's going to be the oil cooler cover.
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Keepforgettingmypassword Thanks this.
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