Dump Truck recommendations as an Owner Operator.

Discussion in 'Ask An Owner Operator' started by farmerjohn64, Nov 11, 2023.

  1. farmerjohn64

    farmerjohn64 Road Train Member

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    Hi,

    Can anyone explain what’s the minimum qualifications for a used truck when signing on as an O/O with most dump truck companies? I’d like to buy my own truck one of these upcoming years, but I’m not sure exactly what I’m looking for in a used truck.

    For example some companies I’ve seen they want you to have a certain year model minimum, even though it’s your truck, before you can drive for them and this would more than likely mean I’d have to buy a more expensive truck.

    If I run into this problem, how hard is it to just run under your own authority as a dump truck driver? I don’t really know all the different kinds of freight besides sand and gravel, but that’s along the lines of what I’d be interested in.

    I’d like to buy a truck that’s reliable, without the new truck price tag and ideally start off working for another company as an O/O (unless that’s a bad idea).

    Thanks
     
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  3. farmerjohn64

    farmerjohn64 Road Train Member

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    Also, any advice for the actual “dump trailer” as to what to look for would be very much appreciated, such as if you were looking for one to haul sand and/or gravel.
     
  4. farmerjohn64

    farmerjohn64 Road Train Member

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    Most of the “affordable” dump trucks I’ve seen on truck paper looks like straight up arse; can you buy the truck and trailer separately and would that be the way to go?
     
  5. Arctic_fox

    Arctic_fox Experienced mx13 execrator

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    Depends on what you mean by dump truck. Class C, B or A? Local or OTR? Are you going to be yanking a pup or just a box? Small trailer? big trailer? lots of axles? Few axles? Side dump? End dump? Belly dump? Walking floor? What state if local? Would you move to a better state if it was a better option?

    There really are a lot of diffrent options and every one of them will give you a radically diffrent answer. Best is to narrow down what you actully want, where you want it, a price range you want to be in, and where and how far you plan to run. After that you can likely find more specific advice.

    That said id avoid buying a rig for the forseeable future. The economy is going into a steep downturn and likely crash and no one knows just how bad it will be. While there is a chance jumping in right now you could succed, odds are far better your going to crash and burn. Id say the current failure rate with the loads drying up and excess trucks cutting each others throats on rates right now.... is around about 49 out of every 50 new companys failing....in the first 6 months. And 199 out of 200 in the first year. It is a BAD time to get in. Not quitr great depression bad but all the signs are there it could go that way.

    Best time to buy equipment is when the freefall starts and everyone and their dog is selling at pennys on the dollar to try and avoid going down with the ship. If you pay cash you can usually get a decent rig for a good price in those conditions. Then if you wait till the rebound which could be years away and fix the truck up in the meantime while building a bankroll you will be in a solid position and have the best posible chance. Course they are trying to ban diesel in several places so.....by the time the rebound hits your shiny diesel could be illegal.
     
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  6. farmerjohn64

    farmerjohn64 Road Train Member

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    Local
    B or A (unsure) I already have a Class A
    Box
    Medium size trailer maybe 20 cubic
    Tri Axle
    End Dump
    Louisiana, Texas, or if one of these days I’m feeling extreme, Alaska or Utah.
    Preferably local, otherwise I’d be looking for different freight altogether.

    Any guess on when the next “free fall” will be?
     
  7. farmerjohn64

    farmerjohn64 Road Train Member

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    Oh I read Camelback was good, but I don’t know sheet about suspensions, half of what I said I didn’t know about until a couple hours ago but it makes sense now
     
  8. farmerjohn64

    farmerjohn64 Road Train Member

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    Steel trailer at that since I don’t know if I’ll only ever haul sand or gravel
     
  9. Arctic_fox

    Arctic_fox Experienced mx13 execrator

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    6 months to a year. Likely just after election season and the new suit takes office. There is usually a pretty good slump right after.

    As for local work with a smaller trailer or class B. Thats going to be tricky and changes so often i wouldnt know where to start. But id recomend anything 2003 and older. Either a 6nz, D60 detriot N14 cummins, or 3406E model engine. Truck brand doesnt matter they are all the same #### truck with a diffrent logo more or less.....save volvo. Volvos suck and everyone will think your a chicago special. Dont be a volvo lover :p. (There is actully nothing WRONG with volvo....they just have a bad rap for a reason....and they do kinda suck for vocational work compared to other options)

    Those old iron trucks will cost more in maintaince and fuel and you will need to wrench more but they are near unkillable and you dont gotta worry about emissions plus you can work on them yourself which saves an absolute crapload of cash.

    Im not too sure on class B but for A i would look for around a 3.55+ gear ratio that will give you a pretty universial gear set. 13 or 18 speed manual. Pinable holand 5th wheel and a good 55 gallon wet kit. Most brands are good so pick the one thats shinest to you.

    As for when the crash happens id try to grab something 500K miles or less or with a paperwork in hand 250K or less rebuild. You can but 500K+ without a rebuild but if they want more then 30-40K they are nuts.
     
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  10. Arctic_fox

    Arctic_fox Experienced mx13 execrator

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    Go aluminum it can haul scrap fine. Just avoid the really really big stuff and the weight diffrence is worth it. Steel is only really good for heavy duty scrap work. Think entire cars or chunks of train.
     
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  11. farmerjohn64

    farmerjohn64 Road Train Member

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    Lmao thanks, I’m not a Volvo guy either
     
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