Driveshaft angles and lengths

Discussion in 'Trucks [ Eighteen Wheelers ]' started by AModelCat, Aug 12, 2016.

  1. AModelCat

    AModelCat Road Train Member

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    I'm getting ready to stick a diff and drill my crossmembers on the W9. Truck was a tandem. I'm dropping 1 diff and installing the single axle about 6-8" ahead of where the previous front drive axle was located. Having the shaft lengths changed is no problem, just not sure if I should take the length out of the shaft at the transmission, the one at the diff or a little out of each?
     
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  3. baha

    baha Road Train Member

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    CK. the yokes on each to see if you may need 1 replaced more than the other?
     
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  4. Animosus

    Animosus Heavy Load Member

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    I'd have it taken out of the rear shaft. That way you don't have to find a new mounting location for your carrier bearing. You may need to add shims to get your angles right though.
     
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  5. AModelCat

    AModelCat Road Train Member

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    I guess I forgot to mention I'm starting fresh and have no holes in the frame back there yet. It wouldn't be too hard to re-locate it at this point.
     
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  6. king Q

    king Q Road Train Member

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    I have seen some unbelievable propshaft angles on old Mercedes trucks from the 60's & 70's.
    They are still running fine.
    Apparently it is more important to keep the input and output shafts parallel than in line.
     
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  7. Superhauler

    Superhauler TEACHER OF MEN

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    I was taught to have at least a 2deg. Angle in the driveline. That will let the u-joints work . If you are installing the cross member for the carrier bearing, split the difference. If your going to be short enough of a wheelbase see if you only need one driveshaft. As long as you don't go over 6 ft in length.
     
    Last edited: Aug 13, 2016
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  8. AModelCat

    AModelCat Road Train Member

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    Definitely more than 6 feet there so I'll need to keep the 2 shafts. One thing I didn't think of initially was the fact I will no longer have a power divider, so moving up the diff 6-8" like I plan may not even effect the driveshaft lengths.

    Another question: where should a guy set the slip yoke at? I was thinking almost fully in with the suspension deflated, that way I wouldn't have to worry about it pulling apart when going down the road.
     
    Last edited: Aug 13, 2016
    Reason for edit: Mis spelled words
  9. Superhauler

    Superhauler TEACHER OF MEN

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    I would not set it all the way in. With rear and frame twist you may run into issues. Your angles will be different. The yoke height will be different from the front compared to the back rear. You may have to change the angle of rear as well to get the correct driveline angles. This can be done by changing the wedge spacers under the spring saddles.
     
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  10. Riprap

    Riprap Light Load Member

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    http://www.scientificbrake.com/service/

    ^These guys shortened and rebalanced a driveshaft for us a few months ago after we installed a new transmission in one of our trucks. They have a huge machine shop and will make driveshafts from scratch. If you can wait til Monday and call them, they will walk you thru the process and answer your questions. They are good people, I believe jason is the guys name in the service dept.
    If the truck is at our yard tomorrow I will see which end was cut and snap a few pics for you
     
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  11. GrapeApe

    GrapeApe Road Train Member

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    Honestly, it doesn't really matter as long as the angles are set up correctly. IMO, since you have no crossmembers yet, it's slightly better to shorten the front shaft and move the carrier bearing forward. The front shaft doesn't swing with suspension movement. Shortening the rear shaft will cause it to have a bit more angle and change angle more with suspension travel. If it's a typical air suspension, the U-joint angle on the axle changes with suspension travel and this could be harder on U-joints. Only moving the rear 6-8" is a small change in angle and probably insignificant.
     
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