DPF question

There are two ways actually without draining coolant. Remove the inner fender and then turn the wheels all the way to the left to make yourself a little hole to work in. First way is real easy, but you can't fully ensure the bore is totally clean inside the outlet pipe. You remove the solid fuel line. You need a 14mm wrench for that. You also need a 12mm wrench to keep the injector tip from spinning as you loosen the fuel line nut. These like to seize, so spray it with a good penetrating spray and work it back and forth until it spins freely. Then, with your 12mm wrench or socket, you can screw out the center fitting of the doser like a spark plug. This is the actual injector tip. It is about the size of a AA battery. Just clean the tip with a rag or soft brush. Before you reinstall it, stick a small screw driver down the hole to make sure it isn't carbonned over. The only thing is you cannot check the whole bore hole, only the direct center. You can unbolt the doser and leave the coolant lines connected because they have a flexible section. You have to be careful and do not wrestle too much with it because you can crack or kink the lines and cause a leak. But, you fully lift up the injector body away and gain full access to the bore and injector tip. You still need to remove the solid fuel line and just sorta push it out of the way, then remove the two 10mm head bolts that secure the injector. If you remove the injector then you need a gasket.

I do not know of any location to get parts other than your nearest International dealer. Here is part number info for 2010 model year MF13.

-doser gasket 3018016C2
-injector (comes with a gasket) 2512884C91 (old injector needs to be returned for core charge)
If you replace the injector I recommend to replace the coolant line fittings because the orings are now worn. You cannot get orings separately. You need 2 fittings. 3006333C1 (x2)
You can reuse the bolts, reapply some antiseize to them. If you do need to replace the bolts, here is the number for them - 3006707C1 (x2)

 

If your DOC inlet temperature is 550, that is ok. You need to look at DPF in/ DPF out temps. They should be over 1100. Did the regen complete on its own? If so, how long did it take? You need to clean that doser. Majority of problems occur because of clogged doser and bore. Do it every 150000 miles.

 

Dude. HeavyD can correct me if I am wrong, but from what I see in those numbers, your DOC is toasted! It may have even come apart. Your 2 intake temps. should be reversed for the regen numbers to look normal. Get that DOC looked at now.

 

Ok, well for starters, this has a Cummins. I was under the impression it had a Maxxforce. All that info I looked up for you is for a Maxxforce so disregard all those part numbers. Also, the doser cleaning procedure is different. As for your problem, you have two temp sensors plugs backwards. Your DOC inlet temp should be reading 573, not 1050. Here is the order the sensors should be;
DOC inlet
DPF inlet
DPF outlet
Locate the very first sensor in the aftertreatment section. Then unplug it. Recheck for codes. You should see the DOC inlet temp sensor giving a fault code. If you have a DPF code, then it is plugged into the wrong socket. Since your temp sensors are not plugged in the right socket, your regen is working with faulty info.

The middle sensor should be for DPF inlet

The last sensor is for DPF outlet.

Plug these back in in the correction location. Some sensors the actual plug is keyed so only one sensor can be plugged in, so you might have to remove the whole sensor to get it to the right location.

Redo your regen. Regen should not allow smoke, if it continues to smoke, your DOC is worn out.